1993 Ford Ranger Gas Tank – Comprehensive Guide To Replacement
The 1993 Ford Ranger gas tank is a critical component that frequently requires attention due to age-related corrosion, debris buildup, or fuel pump failure. This expert guide provides a detailed walkthrough for identifying your specific tank size, safely removing the old unit, and installing a high-quality replacement to keep your truck running reliably.
If you own a classic square-body truck, you know that fuel system integrity is vital for performance and safety. A leaking 1993 ford ranger gas tank is not just a nuisance; it is a serious fire hazard and an environmental concern that can leave you stranded.
I have spent years under these trucks, and I can tell you that replacing a tank is a manageable weekend project if you have the right tools. We will go through the entire process, from choosing between plastic and steel to wrestling with those stubborn fuel line clips.
By the end of this guide, you will have the confidence to swap your tank, replace the fuel pump, and get your Ranger back on the trail or the job site. Let’s dive into the specifics of this essential fuel system repair.
Identifying Your Specific 1993 Ford Ranger Gas Tank
Before you order a replacement, you must identify which tank your truck uses. Ford utilized different capacities based on the wheelbase and the cab configuration of the 1993 model year.
The most common sizes are the 17-gallon and the 20-gallon versions. Generally, short-bed regular cab models use the smaller tank, while SuperCab or long-bed models often feature the 20-gallon fuel reservoir.
To be certain, check the labels on your existing tank or measure the dimensions. You should also note if your tank is made of aluminized steel or high-density polyethylene (plastic), as this affects which mounting straps you might need.
Wheelbase and Cab Configurations
The 108-inch wheelbase typically houses the 17-gallon tank. If you have the 125-inch wheelbase found on SuperCabs, you are likely looking for the 20-gallon 1993 ford ranger gas tank variant.
Confirming the wheelbase is as simple as measuring from the center of the front wheel to the center of the rear wheel. This small step prevents the headache of receiving a part that won’t align with your frame rails.
Material Matters: Plastic vs. Steel
Many original tanks were steel, which is prone to internal rusting if the truck sits for long periods. Rust flakes can quickly clog your fuel injectors and ruin a brand-new fuel pump.
Modern replacements often come in plastic. These are excellent for off-roaders because they do not rust and can sometimes flex slightly under impact without cracking or leaking.
Common Signs Your Tank Needs Immediate Attention
How do you know it is time to stop patching and start replacing? The most obvious sign is a persistent smell of raw gasoline around the rear of the truck or visible puddles on your driveway.
If you notice your truck stumbles under load or has a clogged fuel filter every few months, internal corrosion is likely the culprit. The metal scales inside an old tank act like sandpaper on your fuel system components.
Inspect the fuel filler neck as well. On the 1993 models, the rubber and metal neck assembly often rots away, allowing dirt and water to enter the fuel supply during rainstorms or car washes.
The Danger of Pinholes
Steel tanks often develop “pinhole” leaks along the top where dirt and moisture trap against the frame. These leaks are hard to see but can cause a significant drop in fuel pressure.
If you see wet spots near the tank straps, do not ignore them. This is usually where the most friction and moisture retention occur, leading to structural failure of the metal.
Impact Damage from Off-Roading
For those who take their Ranger onto the trails, a dented tank is a common sight. A large dent can displace enough fuel to affect your fuel gauge accuracy or even crush the fuel pump pickup.
If your skid plate is missing or damaged, your tank is vulnerable. Replacing a compromised tank is cheaper than an engine rebuild caused by lean-running conditions from a restricted fuel pick-up.
Essential Tools and Safety Preparations
Working on a fuel system requires a “safety-first” mindset. Gasoline vapors are extremely volatile and heavier than air, meaning they will settle in low spots like garage pits or basements.
Always work in a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors. Keep a rated fire extinguisher nearby and never use power tools that could create sparks near the open fuel system.
You will need a set of fuel line disconnect tools. These small plastic or metal rings are essential for releasing the “quick-connect” fittings Ford used on the 1993 Ranger’s fuel lines.
The Tool List
- Floor jack and sturdy jack stands.
- Socket set (10mm, 13mm, and 15mm are common).
- Siphon pump or fuel transfer kit.
- Safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves.
- Penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) for rusted bolts.
Draining the Fuel
A full 20-gallon tank weighs roughly 120 pounds, making it dangerous to handle. Always drain as much fuel as possible before attempting to loosen the mounting hardware.
You can use a siphon through the filler neck or, if the fuel pump still works, disconnect the fuel rail line and use the pump to empty the tank into approved containers.
Step-by-Step Removal of the 1993 Ford Ranger Gas Tank
Now we get to the core of the project. To begin the step-by-step removal of the 1993 ford ranger gas tank, ensure the vehicle is securely supported on jack stands on a level surface.
- Disconnect the Battery: Always remove the negative battery cable to prevent any accidental sparks from the electrical system.
- Loosen the Filler Neck: Reach behind the bedside and loosen the hose clamps holding the filler and vent hoses to the tank. Pull them free.
- Support the Tank: Place a floor jack with a wide block of wood under the center of the tank to distribute the weight.
- Remove the Straps: Unbolt the two fuel tank straps. These bolts are often rusted, so use plenty of penetrating oil and a long breaker bar.
- Lower Slowly: Carefully lower the jack a few inches. This gives you room to reach the top of the tank where the electrical connector and fuel lines are located.
- Disconnect Lines: Use your disconnect tools to release the pressure and return lines. Unplug the wiring harness for the fuel sending unit.
- Final Lowering: Once everything is clear, lower the tank completely and slide it out from under the truck frame.
At this point, you can inspect the frame rails for rust. Since the tank is out, it is the perfect time to clean and paint the area with a rust-inhibitor to prolong the life of your truck.
The Bed Removal Alternative
Many experienced mechanics prefer removing the truck bed rather than dropping the tank. This provides total access to the fuel pump, lines, and the top of the tank without laying on your back.
The bed is held on by six or eight large Torx bolts. With a couple of friends, you can lift the bed off or simply tilt it up and prop it safely with heavy-duty lumber.
This method is especially helpful if your 1993 ford ranger gas tank is still mostly full or if your strap bolts are so rusted they might snap during removal. It saves your back and your patience.
Choosing and Preparing the New Tank
When selecting your new 1993 ford ranger gas tank, consider the environment where you drive. If you live in the “rust belt,” a high-grade plastic tank is a wise investment for longevity.
Before installing the new unit, you must transfer or replace the fuel pump assembly. I highly recommend installing a brand-new pump and sending unit now, as the labor is already done.
Ensure the lock ring is seated correctly. A loose lock ring is a common cause of “Check Engine” lights related to the EVAP system and can cause fuel to slosh out when the tank is full.
Inspecting the Vapor Valve
Check the rollover valve or vapor valve on top of the tank. This small plastic component prevents fuel from leaking out if the truck flips and is vital for the ventilation system.
If the rubber grommet for this valve is cracked, replace it. A vacuum leak here will cause poor idling and failed emissions tests, which are a headache to fix later.
Cleaning the Lines
Before connecting the new tank, blow out the fuel lines with compressed air. This ensures that any dirt or debris introduced during the swap doesn’t reach your engine’s fuel injectors.
Check the condition of the quick-connect clips. If they are brittle or broken, buy a replacement kit at the local auto parts store to ensure a leak-free seal.
Installing the New Tank Safely
Installation is generally the reverse of removal, but there are a few “pro tips” to ensure the job goes smoothly. Start by placing the new tank on your jack and raising it halfway.
Reconnect the electrical harness and fuel lines first. It is much easier to click these into place while you still have some hand-room above the tank.
Once the lines are secure, raise the tank the rest of the way. Ensure it sits flush against the insulator pads on the frame to prevent rattling and future wear points.
Torquing the Straps
Thread the strap bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Tighten them until the tank is snug and cannot be moved by hand, but do not over-tighten to the point of crushing a plastic tank.
If your old straps were thin or heavily rusted, replace them with galvanized steel straps. A dropped tank on the highway is a catastrophic failure you want to avoid at all costs.
Refilling and Testing
Add five gallons of fresh gasoline and turn the ignition key to the “On” position without cranking. This allows the fuel pump to prime the system and build pressure.
Check for leaks at all connection points. Once you are certain the system is dry, start the engine and let it idle while you perform a final visual inspection under the truck.
Frequently Asked Questions About 1993 Ford Ranger Gas Tank
What is the fuel capacity of a 1993 Ford Ranger?
The capacity varies by model. Most regular cab short-bed Rangers have a 17-gallon tank, while SuperCab and long-bed models typically feature a 20-gallon 1993 ford ranger gas tank.
Can I swap a steel tank for a plastic one?
Yes, in most cases, plastic (polyethylene) tanks are direct replacements for steel ones. Just ensure the mounting straps and fuel pump opening match your original specifications.
Why does my gas tank whistle when I open the cap?
This is usually caused by a faulty EVAP vent valve or a clogged charcoal canister. It indicates that the tank is not venting pressure or vacuum properly, which can eventually damage the tank walls.
Is it easier to remove the bed to get to the gas tank?
Many DIYers find bed removal easier. It requires removing 6-8 bolts and disconnecting the tailgate lights, but it provides a much better workspace than crawling under the chassis.
Final Thoughts for the DIY Mechanic
Replacing your 1993 ford ranger gas tank is a significant maintenance milestone that restores the safety and reliability of your truck. Whether you are prepping for an off-road adventure or just keeping your daily driver on the road, a clean fuel system is non-negotiable.
Take your time with the fuel line connectors and always prioritize safety by working in a ventilated space. If you encounter heavy frame rot or feel uncomfortable handling the fuel system, do not hesitate to consult a professional technician.
With a fresh tank and a new fuel pump, your Ranger will be ready for many more miles of service. Stay safe, keep your tools organized, and enjoy the peace of mind that comes with a job well done!
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