2013 Ford Explorer AC Relay Location – Fix Your Warm Air Issues Fast
Finding the 2013 ford explorer ac relay location is the first step in troubleshooting a cooling system that has stopped blowing cold air. This guide identifies the exact relay in the engine bay fuse box and provides professional steps to test and replace it safely. By identifying this small electrical component, you can often avoid expensive shop diagnostic fees and restore your cabin comfort in minutes.
Few things are more frustrating than heading out for a summer drive only to realize your vents are blowing ambient air. You might have already checked your temperature dials or tried to recharge the system, but the problem could be much simpler. In many cases, the culprit is a small, inexpensive plastic box known as the A/C clutch relay.
I have spent years diagnosing electrical gremlins in Ford SUVs, and I can tell you that a failed relay is a common point of failure. It acts as the bridge between your car’s computer and the heavy-duty mechanical clutch on the compressor. If that bridge is out, your air conditioning stays off, no matter how low you set the thermostat.
In this guide, I will walk you through the 2013 ford explorer ac relay location, explain how to test it without special tools, and help you decide when it is time to call in a professional. Let’s get your Ford Explorer back to being the mobile icebox it was designed to be.
Finding the 2013 ford explorer ac relay location Under the Hood
To find the relay, you need to look inside the engine compartment. Ford places the primary electrical distribution center, often called the Battery Junction Box, on the driver’s side of the engine bay. It is a black plastic box located right near the battery and the driver-side strut tower.
Once you locate this box, you will need to remove the plastic lid. There are usually two plastic tabs on the sides that you need to depress or pull outward to release the cover. Be gentle with these, especially if you are working in cold weather, as the plastic can become brittle over time.
Inside the lid, you will often find a printed diagram, but these can be difficult to read after years of engine heat and dust. On a 2013 Ford Explorer, the A/C clutch relay is specifically designated as Relay #34. This relay is responsible for sending the 12-volt signal to the compressor clutch to engage the cooling cycle.
Identifying Relay #34 and Fuse #27
While you are looking for the 2013 ford explorer ac relay location, you should also check the associated fuse. A relay cannot do its job if the power supply is cut off before it even gets there. Look for Fuse #27, which is a 10-amp fuse that protects the A/C clutch circuit.
Relay #34 is typically a small, square black component. It is surrounded by other relays of the same size, such as the horn relay or the fuel pump relay. Having these identical relays nearby is actually a benefit for DIYers, as it allows for a very quick diagnostic trick we will discuss later.
Always ensure the engine is off before you start pulling components. While relays are relatively safe to handle, you want to avoid any accidental electrical shorts. Keep a pair of needle-nose pliers handy, as these relays can sometimes be seated very tightly in their sockets.
Symptoms of a Failing A/C Clutch Relay
How do you know the relay is actually the problem? Electrical components usually fail in one of two ways: they either stop conducting electricity entirely, or they get “stuck” in the closed position. Both scenarios will ruin your day, but they present very different symptoms.
The most common symptom is that the A/C compressor simply will not turn on. You will hear the blower motor inside the cabin spinning, but the air never gets cold. If you stand near the front of the vehicle with the engine running and the A/C on, you should normally hear a distinct click every few minutes. If you never hear that click, the relay may be dead.
Another symptom is the A/C working intermittently. You might find that the air is cold for the first ten minutes of your drive but turns warm as the engine bay heats up. Heat increases electrical resistance, and a worn relay might fail only once it reaches a certain temperature.
The “Stuck” Relay Scenario
A less common but more dangerous symptom is a relay that is stuck “on.” If the internal contacts weld themselves together, the A/C compressor will run constantly. This can lead to the evaporator core freezing over, which actually blocks airflow into the cabin.
If you notice a massive puddle of water under your Explorer or see ice forming on the aluminum A/C lines under the hood, pull the relay immediately. Letting the compressor run non-stop can lead to slugging, where liquid refrigerant enters the compressor and destroys it. A five-dollar relay is much cheaper than a thousand-dollar compressor replacement.
Finally, listen for a rapid clicking sound coming from the fuse box. This usually indicates that the relay is receiving a signal but doesn’t have enough “strength” to hold the internal switch closed. This can be caused by a failing relay or a broader charging system issue.
Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing the Relay
Once you have confirmed the 2013 ford explorer ac relay location, the replacement process is straightforward. You do not need to be a master mechanic to perform this task. It is a simple “plug and play” operation that takes less than five minutes.
- Park and Prep: Ensure the vehicle is in park with the engine turned off. Open the hood and secure it with the prop rod.
- Open the Junction Box: Locate the black box on the driver’s side and pop the lid. Set the lid aside in a safe place where you won’t step on it.
- Locate Relay 34: Use the diagram on the lid or your owner’s manual to find the exact square labeled 34.
- Remove the Old Relay: Grasp the relay firmly and pull straight up. If it is stuck, wiggle it slightly from side to side while pulling. Do not use excessive force with pliers, or you might crush the plastic casing.
- Inspect the Socket: Look into the holes where the relay pins go. They should look clean and metallic. If you see melted plastic or green corrosion, you have a deeper wiring issue.
- Install the New Relay: Line up the pins of the new relay with the socket. It should only go in one way. Press down firmly until it is seated flush against the fuse box base.
After installation, start the engine and turn the A/C to the “Max” setting. Listen for that reassuring click of the compressor clutch engaging. If the air starts getting cold within sixty seconds, you have successfully solved the problem.
Choosing the Right Replacement Part
When buying a replacement, I always recommend going with an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) part, specifically Motorcraft for Ford vehicles. While “universal” relays at the local auto parts store might look the same, the internal resistance and build quality can vary.
A high-quality relay is designed to handle the high-amperage draw of the A/C clutch for years. Cheap alternatives might fail within a few months, leaving you back at square one. Keep the old relay in your glovebox as an emergency spare if it was only failing intermittently.
The Pro “Swap Test” Method for Instant Diagnosis
If you are stuck on the side of the road or at a campsite and don’t have a multimeter, there is a legendary trick used by field mechanics. Since many of the relays in the 2013 Ford Explorer fuse box are identical, you can swap them to test for functionality.
Look for another relay in the box that has the same part number as the one in the 2013 ford explorer ac relay location. Often, the horn relay or the rear defroster relay is the same type. Ensure the part numbers printed on the top of the relays match exactly before swapping.
Swap the A/C relay with the horn relay. Now, try to honk the horn. If the horn doesn’t work, but your A/C suddenly starts blowing cold, you have 100% confirmed that the original relay is bad. This is a foolproof way to diagnose the issue without spending a dime on tools.
Safety Warnings for the Swap Test
Never swap the A/C relay with a critical engine relay, such as the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) or the Fuel Pump relay. If the A/C relay is shorted, it could blow a fuse and leave your vehicle unable to start. Stick to “comfort” or “convenience” circuits like the horn or wipers for your testing.
Also, pay attention to the pin layout. Most relays for this model are 4-pin or 5-pin designs. Even if the plastic box looks the same size, the internal wiring might be different. Always verify that the schematic printed on the side of the relay matches.
Advanced Testing Using a Multimeter
If the swap test didn’t yield a clear answer, it is time to get technical. A multimeter is a DIY mechanic’s best friend. To test the relay properly, you need to check for two things: continuity and coil resistance.
Set your multimeter to the Ohms (Ω) setting. Touch the probes to pins 85 and 86 on the relay (the numbers are usually stamped on the bottom near the pins). You should see a reading between 50 and 100 Ohms. If the meter reads “OL” (Open Loop), the internal coil is broken, and the relay is junk.
Next, check the socket in the car. With the engine running and the A/C turned on, one of the slots in the fuse box should show 12 volts. If you aren’t getting power to the socket, the problem isn’t the relay—it’s likely a blown fuse, a bad pressure switch, or a fault in the Climate Control Module.
Checking the Compressor Clutch Air Gap
Sometimes, the relay is working perfectly, but the compressor clutch still won’t engage. This is a common “hidden” issue on high-mileage 2013 Explorers. As the clutch face wears down, the air gap between the pulley and the clutch plate becomes too wide.
The magnetic field created by the relay’s power isn’t strong enough to pull the plate across that extra distance. You can test this by safely (and carefully!) tapping the front of the A/C compressor with a long stick or broom handle while the engine is running and the A/C is on. If it suddenly clicks and starts spinning, your air gap is too wide, not your relay.
What Else Could Be Wrong? Beyond the Relay
If you have verified the 2013 ford explorer ac relay location and replaced the part, but you still have no cold air, it is time to look at the broader system. A relay is just a switch; it won’t work if the car’s computer tells it to stay off.
The most common reason the computer disables the A/C relay is low refrigerant pressure. The system has a pressure sensor that monitors the level of Freon. If the pressure is too low (indicating a leak), the computer cuts power to the relay to prevent the compressor from running dry and burning up.
You can check this by attaching a DIY recharge gauge to the low-side port. If the gauge reads zero, you have a leak. Adding more refrigerant might provide a temporary fix, but the relay will eventually click off again once the gas escapes. In this case, you need to find the leak, often found in the evaporator core or the condenser.
The Role of the Ambient Temp Sensor
The 2013 Ford Explorer also relies on an ambient air temperature sensor located behind the front grille. If this sensor fails and tells the car it is -40 degrees outside, the computer will refuse to engage the A/C relay to prevent the system from icing up. If your external temperature display on the dashboard is showing a crazy number, that sensor is your real problem.
Lastly, consider the cooling fans. If your engine is overheating or the cooling fans aren’t spinning, the computer may shut down the A/C to reduce the load on the engine. Always check your temp gauge; if it’s creeping toward the red zone, the A/C shut-off is a protective measure, not a relay failure.
Frequently Asked Questions About 2013 ford explorer ac relay location
Where is the A/C fuse on a 2013 Ford Explorer?
The A/C clutch fuse is Fuse #27, located in the Battery Junction Box under the hood. It is a 10-amp (red) fuse. If this fuse is blown, the relay will not receive the power it needs to engage the compressor.
Can I drive my Explorer without the A/C relay?
Yes, you can safely drive your vehicle without the A/C relay. The only consequence is that your air conditioning will not function. It will not affect the engine’s performance, steering, or braking systems.
Why does my A/C relay keep blowing?
If you replace the relay and it fails again shortly after, you likely have a short circuit or a failing A/C compressor clutch. A clutch that is partially shorted will draw too much amperage, melting the internal contacts of the relay over time.
Is the A/C relay the same as the blower motor relay?
No, they are separate components. The A/C clutch relay controls the compressor under the hood, while the blower motor relay (or resistor) controls the fan that blows air through your vents. If your fan isn’t blowing at all, check the blower motor circuit instead.
Summary and Final Tips for Ford Owners
Taking control of your vehicle’s maintenance is empowering and cost-effective. By knowing the 2013 ford explorer ac relay location, you have the power to fix a major comfort issue with a part that costs less than a lunch at a fast-food restaurant. Remember to always start with the simplest solution—the “swap test”—before moving on to more complex repairs.
Working on your own vehicle requires a safety-first mindset. Always keep your hands and clothing away from moving belts and pulleys while the engine is running. If you find yourself overwhelmed by electrical diagrams or if you smell burning plastic near the fuse box, do not hesitate to consult a certified mechanic.
Maintaining your Explorer’s cooling system doesn’t just keep you comfortable; it also helps maintain the resale value of your vehicle. A well-documented history of DIY repairs shows that you are an attentive owner who cares about the longevity of your ride. Stay cool, stay safe, and enjoy the open road!
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