2013 Ford Explorer Bolt Pattern – The Essential Guide For Perfect
The 2013 Ford Explorer utilizes a 5×114.3mm bolt pattern, which is also commonly referred to as the 5×4.5 inch pattern in the imperial system. This specific measurement, combined with a 70.5mm center bore, dictates which aftermarket or OEM wheels will safely fit your vehicle without causing vibrations or mechanical failure.
Selecting new wheels for your SUV is one of the most impactful upgrades you can make, but it is also one where precision is non-negotiable. Whether you are looking to improve your curb appeal or you are prepping for a rugged weekend on the trails, understanding the 2013 ford explorer bolt pattern is the first step toward a successful transformation.
Most owners feel a bit of anxiety when shopping for rims because a mistake can lead to costly returns or, worse, safety issues on the road. You want a setup that looks aggressive but maintains the smooth, predictable handling Ford engineered into the 5th generation Explorer platform.
In this guide, I will walk you through every technical detail you need to know, from lug nut torque specs to offset calculations. By the end of this article, you will have the confidence to choose the perfect set of wheels and install them like a seasoned professional.
The Foundation: Understanding the 2013 ford explorer bolt pattern
The bolt pattern is the most critical dimension of any wheel, as it determines if the wheel can even be physically mounted to the hub. For the 2013 model year, Ford stuck with a very popular and widely available configuration that offers plenty of aftermarket support.
The “5” in the pattern represents the number of lug holes on the wheel. Having five lugs provides a balanced distribution of clamping force, which is essential for a vehicle with the Explorer’s weight and towing capacity.
The “114.3mm” refers to the diameter of the imaginary circle formed by the centers of those five lug holes. If you prefer working in inches, this is exactly 4.5 inches, making the 2013 ford explorer bolt pattern one of the most common “standard” sizes in the automotive world.
Why Precision Matters
You might find wheels that look “close enough,” such as a 5×112 or 5×115 pattern. Never attempt to force these onto your Explorer, as even a few millimeters of difference will put extreme stress on the wheel studs.
Using the wrong pattern can lead to the studs shearing off while driving. Always verify the PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter) before making a purchase to ensure your safety and the longevity of your wheel bearings.
Hub-Centric vs. Lug-Centric Designs
The 2013 Explorer is designed to be hub-centric. This means the center hole of the wheel fits perfectly over the machined lip of the hub, which supports the weight of the vehicle.
If you buy aftermarket wheels with a larger center bore, you must use hub-centric rings. These rings bridge the gap and ensure the wheel stays perfectly centered, preventing the dreaded “steering wheel shake” at highway speeds.
Critical Dimensions: Center Bore, Offset, and Backspacing
While the bolt pattern gets you through the door, the other dimensions determine how the wheel sits in the wheel well. Getting these wrong can result in tires rubbing against the suspension or sticking out too far past the fenders.
The center bore for a 2013 Explorer is 70.5mm. This is a standard Ford size, shared with the Mustang of the same era. If the wheel’s center hole is smaller than this, it simply won’t fit over the hub.
Offset is the next big factor, measured in millimeters (ET). The stock Explorer wheels usually have a high positive offset, typically between +35mm and +50mm, depending on whether you have the 18-inch or 20-inch factory options.
Understanding Positive Offset
A positive offset means the mounting surface of the wheel is closer to the street side (outside) of the rim. This pushes the wheel further into the wheel well, keeping the tires tucked under the bodywork.
If you choose a wheel with a lower offset (like +20mm), the wheels will “poke” out further. This can provide a wider stance and better stability, but it may require fender modifications if you use oversized tires.
The Role of Backspacing
Backspacing is related to offset but measured from the back edge of the rim to the mounting surface. It is a crucial measurement for off-roaders who need to ensure the inner tire sidewall doesn’t hit the strut tower or control arms.
For the 2013 Explorer, keeping the backspacing within the factory range (around 5.5 to 6 inches) ensures that your suspension components have enough room to cycle through their full range of motion without interference.
Essential Tools for a Wheel Change
Before you start loosening those lug nuts, you need the right gear. Working on an SUV requires heavy-duty tools that can handle the weight and the torque requirements of the 5th gen Explorer.
- Floor Jack: A 3-ton hydraulic floor jack is recommended. Avoid the “widow-maker” scissor jack included in the trunk unless it is an emergency.
- Jack Stands: Never work on a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use sturdy stands placed under the frame rails.
- Torque Wrench: This is non-negotiable. You must tighten the lugs to exactly 100 lb-ft (135 Nm) to prevent warping the brake rotors.
- 19mm or 21mm Socket: Depending on whether you have factory lugs or aftermarket “swollen” lugs, you will need a deep-well thin-wall socket.
- Breaker Bar: To loosen lugs that have been overtightened by an overzealous shop with an impact wrench.
I also recommend keeping a small container of anti-seize lubricant. Applying a tiny amount to the hub’s center lip (not the studs!) will prevent the wheel from “welding” itself to the hub due to corrosion over time.
Safety is the priority here. Always work on a flat, level concrete surface. If you are working on a driveway with a slight incline, use wheel chocks on the opposite end of the vehicle to prevent it from rolling.
Step-by-Step Execution Framework for Wheel Installation
Installing wheels correctly involves more than just “righty-tighty.” Following a specific sequence ensures that the wheel sits flat against the brake rotor and that the 2013 ford explorer bolt pattern is perfectly aligned with the studs.
- Loosen the Lugs: While the vehicle is still on the ground, use your breaker bar to “crack” the lug nuts loose. Do not remove them yet.
- Lift and Secure: Place the jack under the designated lift points. Raise the Explorer until the tire clears the ground, then lower it onto a jack stand.
- Remove the Wheel: Take off the lug nuts and pull the wheel straight toward you. If it is stuck, give the tire a firm kick on the outer edge to break the corrosion seal.
- Clean the Hub: Use a wire brush to remove rust from the hub face and the center bore lip. A clean surface is vital for a vibration-free ride.
- Mount the New Wheel: Lift the new wheel onto the studs. Ensure it sits flush against the hub. If you are using hub-centric rings, install them now.
- Hand-Tighten: Thread the lug nuts on by hand. This prevents cross-threading, which can ruin your wheel studs and cost you a trip to the mechanic.
- Lower and Torque: Lower the vehicle until the tire just touches the ground. Use your torque wrench to tighten the nuts in a “star pattern” to 100 lb-ft.
The star pattern is vital. By skipping every other nut as you tighten, you apply even pressure across the wheel face. This prevents the wheel from “cocking” at an angle, which would cause a wobble once you hit the road.
After driving about 50 to 100 miles on your new setup, always re-torque the lug nuts. New wheels (especially aluminum ones) can “settle,” causing the lug nuts to lose a bit of their initial clamping force.
Common Mistakes and Troubleshooting Tips
Even experienced DIYers can run into trouble when dealing with the 2013 ford explorer bolt pattern and aftermarket wheel fitment. One of the most common issues is “lug nut seat” mismatch.
Factory Ford wheels use a “large acorn” or “conical” seat. Some aftermarket wheels require “tuner lugs” with a different seat shape or a smaller diameter. Using the wrong nut will result in the wheel coming loose, regardless of how much you torque it.
Another common pitfall is ignoring the Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). Your 2013 Explorer uses sensors inside the wheel to monitor air pressure. If you buy new wheels without transferring these sensors or buying new ones, your dashboard will have a persistent warning light.
Dealing with “Swollen” Lug Nuts
Ford used a two-piece lug nut design for many years. These consist of a steel core with a chrome cap. Over time, moisture gets between the layers, causing the cap to swell. If your 19mm socket no longer fits, do not force it.
The solution is to replace them with solid, one-piece steel lug nuts. This is a cheap insurance policy against being stranded on the side of the road with a flat tire that you can’t remove because your wrench won’t fit the swollen nuts.
Vibration Troubleshooting
If you feel a vibration in the steering wheel after installing new rims, the first thing to check is the balancing. Even a quarter-ounce of weight difference can cause a shake at 65 MPH.
If the wheels are balanced but the shake persists, check your hub-centric rings. A missing or damaged ring allows the wheel to sit slightly off-center on the 2013 ford explorer bolt pattern, leading to a rhythmic vibration that feels like a bad alignment.
Off-Road vs. Street Setups: Choosing the Right Wheels
The 2013 Explorer is a versatile platform. Some owners want the “VIP” look with 22-inch rims and low-profile tires, while others want to maximize the Intelligent 4WD system for camping and light trail use.
For a street-focused setup, you can safely go up to a 20 or 22-inch wheel. However, keep in mind that larger wheels mean shorter tire sidewalls. This makes the ride firmer and increases the risk of “pothole damage” to your expensive new rims.
If you are heading off-road, I recommend sticking with the 18-inch wheel size. This allows for a tire with more sidewall, which acts as a secondary cushion for the suspension. It also allows you to “air down” for better traction in sand or mud.
Tire Clearance Issues
When increasing tire size, the most common “rub point” on a 2013 Explorer is the inner plastic fender liner and the lower corner of the front bumper. A slight change in offset can help push the tire away from these components.
Before committing to a massive tire, use a wheel fitment calculator online. Input your stock specs and your proposed specs to see exactly how many millimeters closer the new setup will be to your suspension and fenders.
Frequently Asked Questions About the 2013 Ford Explorer Bolt Pattern
What is the exact 2013 ford explorer bolt pattern in inches?
The bolt pattern is 5×4.5 inches. This is the imperial equivalent of 5×114.3mm and is one of the most common patterns used by Ford, Mazda, and Toyota.
Can I use Mustang wheels on my 2013 Explorer?
Yes, many Mustang wheels share the 5×114.3 pattern and the 70.5mm center bore. However, you must check the load rating. Explorer wheels are designed to carry much more weight than Mustang wheels, so ensure the donor wheels are rated for an SUV.
What is the factory lug nut torque for a 2013 Explorer?
The official torque specification is 100 lb-ft (135 Nm). Always use a calibrated torque wrench and tighten in a star pattern to ensure the wheel is seated evenly against the hub.
Will 17-inch wheels fit a 2013 Explorer?
Most 17-inch wheels will not clear the front brake calipers on a 2013 Explorer. It is generally recommended to stay with 18-inch wheels or larger to ensure there is enough “barrel clearance” for the braking system.
Do I need new lug nuts for aftermarket wheels?
In most cases, yes. Aftermarket wheels often have smaller lug holes that require “spline drive” or “tuner” lugs. Additionally, ensure the seat type (conical vs. ball) matches the new wheel’s design.
Conclusion: Success with Your 2013 ford explorer bolt pattern
Upgrading your wheels is a rewarding project that combines technical knowledge with personal style. By sticking to the 5×114.3mm measurement and paying close attention to the center bore and offset, you ensure that your Explorer remains as safe as it is stylish.
Remember that the 2013 ford explorer bolt pattern is just one piece of the puzzle. Always prioritize high-quality hardware, use a torque wrench for every installation, and double-check your fitment before hitting the highway or the trail.
A well-chosen set of wheels doesn’t just change how your Ford looks; it changes how you feel every time you walk up to it in the parking lot. Take your time, do your measurements, and enjoy the process of making your Explorer truly yours. Stay safe and happy wrenching!
- Smallest Chevrolet Car – Maximizing Utility And Efficiency - September 28, 2026
- Chevrolet Small Car Models – A Practical Owner’S Guide To Maintenance - September 28, 2026
- Chevrolet Hhr Miles Per Gallon – Real-World Efficiency And Maintenance - September 28, 2026