2013 Ford Explorer Wheel Bearing – Diagnose, Replace, And Restore
A failing wheel bearing on your 2013 Ford Explorer can lead to concerning noises and compromised safety. This guide offers a comprehensive walkthrough for diagnosing symptoms, understanding the replacement process, and ensuring your SUV drives smoothly and safely again.
Is your 2013 Ford Explorer making strange noises – a persistent hum or grind that seems to get worse with speed? Many owners encounter this tell-tale sign of a failing wheel bearing, a critical component for safe and smooth travel. Ignoring these symptoms can lead to more serious, costly damage and even dangerous driving conditions.
Don’t let a bad wheel bearing compromise your ride. We’ll equip you with the knowledge to accurately diagnose the issue and confidently tackle the replacement, potentially saving you significant time and money on shop labor. This isn’t just about fixing a part; it’s about restoring your confidence on the road, whether you’re commuting or heading out for an off-road adventure.
From identifying the early symptoms to gathering the right tools and executing the repair safely, this expert guide will walk you through every critical step for servicing your 2013 Ford Explorer wheel bearing. Prepare to get your hands dirty and bring your Explorer back to peak performance.
Understanding the Symptoms of a Failing 2013 Ford Explorer Wheel Bearing
Recognizing the early signs of a worn wheel bearing is crucial for preventing further damage and maintaining safety. These symptoms often start subtly and worsen over time. Being attuned to your vehicle’s sounds and feel can save you a lot of headache.
Common Noises and Sensations
The most common symptom is an audible noise, which can vary depending on the severity of the wear.
You might hear a distinct growling, humming, or roaring sound, especially at highway speeds. This noise often changes in pitch or intensity when you steer the vehicle from side to side. For instance, a failing right wheel bearing might get louder when you turn left, putting more load on that side.
Another tell-tale sign is a grinding sound, which usually indicates severe wear and metal-on-metal contact within the bearing. This sound is a serious warning that the bearing is on the verge of failure.
Beyond noise, you might also feel vibrations in the steering wheel or through the floorboard. A loose or worn bearing can also cause a feeling of looseness or excessive play in the steering. This can make the vehicle feel less stable, especially when cornering or hitting bumps.
How to Confirm a Suspected Wheel Bearing Issue
To confirm your suspicions, you can perform a simple driveway test. With the vehicle safely jacked up and supported on jack stands, grasp the wheel at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions. Try to rock the wheel back and forth.
Any significant play or clunking indicates a worn wheel bearing or possibly a loose ball joint. Repeat this test at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions.
Another method is to spin the wheel by hand and listen for grinding or roughness. A healthy wheel bearing should spin smoothly and silently. Be sure to check all four wheels if you’re unsure which one is making the noise.
Essential Tools and Parts for Your Wheel Bearing Replacement
Before you begin any work, gathering the right tools and parts is paramount. Having everything ready will streamline the process and prevent frustrating delays. Attempting this job without the proper equipment can be dangerous and lead to damage.
Must-Have Tools for the Job
You’ll need a reliable set of tools for this task. A sturdy floor jack and a pair of heavy-duty jack stands are non-negotiable for safety. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
A complete socket set, including both metric and standard sizes, will be necessary for various fasteners. You’ll definitely need a large breaker bar for stubborn lug nuts and axle nuts, as well as a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening.
Other useful tools include a pry bar, a large hammer or mallet, a wire brush for cleaning, and penetrating oil for rusted bolts. You might also need a specific axle nut socket, which can be quite large, typically around 32mm or 36mm for many Ford models.
If you’re dealing with a press-in style bearing, you’ll need a specialized wheel bearing press kit or a hydraulic press. However, many modern vehicles, including the 2013 Ford Explorer, use a hub assembly that is bolted in, simplifying the replacement process for DIYers.
Choosing the Right Replacement Parts
For the 2013 Ford Explorer, both front and rear wheel bearings are typically sold as complete hub assemblies. This means the bearing, hub, and often the ABS sensor ring are pre-assembled. This makes replacement much simpler than pressing out and in individual bearings.
When purchasing, ensure you specify the correct side (front/rear, left/right) as some parts can be specific. Opt for a reputable brand known for quality and durability. While aftermarket options can save money, cheaper bearings may not last as long.
Always replace wheel bearings in pairs on the same axle (both front or both rear) if one has failed. This ensures even wear and prevents another failure soon after. It’s also a good idea to have some new cotter pins and potentially new axle nuts on hand, as these are often single-use items.
Safety First: Preparing for Your Wheel Bearing Job
Safety should always be your top priority when working on any vehicle. Taking the time to properly prepare your workspace and vehicle can prevent accidents and injuries. Do not rush this critical phase.
Secure Your Vehicle
Begin by parking your Explorer on a flat, level, and firm surface. Engage the parking brake firmly. If you’re working on a front wheel, block the rear wheels with wheel chocks. If working on a rear wheel, block the front wheels.
Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you’ll be working on while the vehicle is still on the ground. This makes it easier to remove them once the wheel is lifted. Then, use your floor jack to lift the front or rear of the vehicle.
Once the vehicle is lifted, immediately place jack stands under sturdy frame points or designated jack points. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands, ensuring it is stable and secure before proceeding. Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm stability.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment. Safety glasses are a must to protect your eyes from dirt, rust, and flying debris. Gloves will protect your hands from grease, sharp edges, and potential pinches.
Consider wearing sturdy, closed-toe shoes. Avoid loose clothing or jewelry that could get caught in moving parts or tools. Having a clean, well-lit workspace will also contribute to a safer environment.
Step-by-Step Front Wheel Bearing Replacement on Your Explorer
Replacing a front wheel bearing on your 2013 Ford Explorer is a manageable DIY task for those with mechanical aptitude. This guide focuses on the front, as it’s the most common failure point. Remember to consult your vehicle’s service manual for specific torque specifications.
Disassembly: Getting to the Hub Assembly
With the wheel removed and the vehicle safely on jack stands, your first step is to remove the brake caliper. You’ll typically find two bolts on the back of the caliper that need to be removed. Once unbolted, carefully slide the caliper off the rotor and hang it securely using a bungee cord or wire.
Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose, as this can damage the hose. Next, remove the brake rotor. It might be held on by a small retaining screw or simply be rusted onto the hub. A few taps with a rubber mallet can help free it.
Now, you’ll need to access the axle nut. This nut is often protected by a dust cap and a cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin and the dust cap, then use your large socket and breaker bar to loosen the axle nut. This nut is usually very tight and may require significant force.
Removing the Old Hub Assembly
After the axle nut is loose, you’ll need to disconnect the ABS sensor wire. This is typically a plastic connector that clips into the hub assembly. Carefully unclip it and unroute the wire from any retaining clips.
Next, locate the bolts that secure the hub assembly to the steering knuckle. There are usually three or four of these bolts on the back of the knuckle. They can be tight and sometimes difficult to access. Use the appropriate socket and ratchet, or a wrench if space is limited.
Once these bolts are removed, the old hub assembly should slide out. Sometimes, it might be rusted in place. In this case, you can use a large hammer to carefully tap the axle shaft inward, which will push the hub assembly out from the knuckle. Be gentle not to damage the axle threads.
Installing the New Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly
Clean the mating surface on the steering knuckle thoroughly with a wire brush to remove any rust or debris. A clean surface ensures the new hub sits flush. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize compound to the mating surface to prevent future corrosion.
Carefully slide the new hub assembly into place, aligning it with the bolt holes on the steering knuckle. Insert and hand-tighten the hub assembly bolts. Then, tighten them to the manufacturer’s specified torque using your torque wrench. Consult your Ford Explorer service manual for the exact torque values.
Route and reconnect the ABS sensor wire, ensuring it’s securely clipped in place and not pinched. Thread on the new axle nut (if provided) or reuse the old one if it’s in good condition and not a single-use type. Tighten the axle nut by hand.
Reassembly and Final Checks
Before fully tightening the axle nut, reinstall the brake rotor and caliper. Torque the brake caliper bolts to specification. Once everything is back in place, lower the vehicle slightly so the wheel is touching the ground. This will prevent the wheel from spinning when you apply final torque to the axle nut.
Tighten the axle nut to the manufacturer’s specified torque. This is a critical step, as improper torque can lead to premature bearing failure. Install a new cotter pin to secure the axle nut, bending the ends to prevent it from backing out.
Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to the correct torque specification. Once everything is assembled, lower the vehicle completely. Pump the brake pedal several times to restore pressure to the caliper before driving.
Rear Wheel Bearing Considerations for the 2013 Explorer
While the front wheel bearings are more prone to failure due to steering stresses, the rear wheel bearings on your 2013 Ford Explorer can also wear out. The replacement process shares many similarities with the front, but there are a few key differences to be aware of.
Similarities and Differences in Procedure
Like the front, the rear wheel bearings for the 2013 Explorer are typically hub assemblies that bolt into the knuckle. This simplifies the replacement considerably, avoiding the need for a hydraulic press. The general steps of lifting the vehicle, removing the wheel, brakes, and axle nut remain consistent.
However, access to the hub assembly bolts on the rear can sometimes be more challenging due to suspension components or exhaust routing. You might need different extensions or swivel joints for your ratchet to reach these fasteners. Also, the rear axle might have a different ABS sensor connection or routing.
Always confirm the specific part numbers for front versus rear hub assemblies, as they are not interchangeable. The torque specifications for the axle nut and hub assembly bolts may also differ between the front and rear axles.
Addressing Common Rear-Specific Issues
One common issue that can complicate rear wheel bearing replacement is rusted or seized components. The rear axle components are often exposed to more road grime and moisture, leading to increased corrosion. Generous application of penetrating oil and patience are your best allies.
Another consideration is vehicles equipped with electronic parking brakes. If your Explorer has an electronic parking brake, you may need to put it into “service mode” using a diagnostic tool before attempting to remove the rear brake caliper. Failure to do so can damage the electronic parking brake mechanism. Consult your owner’s manual or a service guide for this specific procedure.
Post-Replacement Checks and Test Drive Tips
Once your new wheel bearing is installed, the job isn’t quite finished. A few crucial steps remain to ensure everything is correct and safe before you hit the road. These checks will give you peace of mind and confirm a successful repair.
Final Inspections Before Driving
Double-check all bolts you loosened or removed, ensuring they are torqued to specification. Pay particular attention to the lug nuts, caliper bolts, and the axle nut. Verify that the ABS sensor wire is securely connected and routed away from any moving parts.
Check for any tools or debris left in the wheel well or under the vehicle. Pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm before starting the engine. This re-establishes hydraulic pressure to the brake caliper.
Finally, visually inspect the new hub assembly and surrounding components for any obvious issues. Ensure there’s no visible play or looseness in the wheel while it’s still jacked up, repeating the 12-6 and 3-9 o’clock tests.
The All-Important Test Drive
The test drive is where you confirm your repair. Start with a short, slow drive, listening carefully for any unusual noises or sensations. Pay attention to how the steering feels and if the vehicle tracks straight.
Gradually increase your speed on a safe road, listening for the humming or grinding noise that prompted the repair. It should be gone. Also, perform some gentle turns to both the left and right to ensure the bearing performs silently under load.
If you hear any new noises, feel vibrations, or notice issues with braking or steering, pull over safely and re-inspect your work. It’s rare, but sometimes a new part can be faulty, or a step might have been overlooked. A successful test drive means you’ve restored smooth, quiet operation to your Explorer.
When to Call a Pro: Recognizing Your Limits
While replacing a 2013 Ford Explorer wheel bearing is a common DIY task, there are situations where calling in a licensed professional is the smartest and safest option. Knowing your limits is a sign of a truly skilled mechanic.
When to Seek Professional Help
If you encounter unexpected complications, such as severely rusted or seized bolts that won’t budge, or if you strip a bolt head, it might be time to call for assistance. Damaging critical components by forcing them can lead to much more expensive repairs.
Lack of specialized tools, like a proper torque wrench for axle nuts or an electronic parking brake service tool, is another reason to consider professional help. Using improper tools can lead to inaccurate torque settings, which can cause premature bearing failure or even safety hazards.
If you feel uncomfortable at any point during the repair, or if you lack confidence in your ability to complete the job safely and correctly, don’t hesitate to contact a reputable mechanic. Your safety and the safety of your passengers are paramount.
The Value of Expert Service
Professional mechanics have access to specialized tools, diagnostic equipment, and the experience to handle complex situations efficiently. They can also ensure all components are torqued to factory specifications and perform a comprehensive inspection of related suspension and brake components.
Sometimes, the peace of mind that comes with a professional repair, backed by a warranty, is well worth the cost. For off-road enthusiasts or those who frequently travel long distances, ensuring every component is in perfect working order is non-negotiable.
Frequently Asked Questions About 2013 Ford Explorer Wheel Bearings
How long do 2013 Ford Explorer wheel bearings typically last?
The lifespan of a wheel bearing can vary greatly depending on driving conditions, maintenance, and part quality, but they generally last between 85,000 to 100,000 miles. Aggressive driving, off-roading, and frequent exposure to water or road salt can shorten their life.
Can I drive my Explorer with a bad wheel bearing?
While you might be able to drive short distances, it is strongly advised against. A failing wheel bearing can quickly degrade, leading to wheel detachment, brake failure, or loss of control, especially at higher speeds. It’s a significant safety risk.
What is the average cost to replace a 2013 Ford Explorer wheel bearing?
The cost varies depending on whether you do it yourself or hire a professional. DIY costs typically range from $100-$250 per hub assembly for parts. Professional installation can range from $300-$600 or more per wheel, including parts and labor, depending on your location and shop rates.
Do I need an alignment after replacing a wheel bearing?
Typically, a wheel bearing replacement itself does not directly affect alignment angles, especially if you’re replacing a bolt-on hub assembly. However, it’s good practice to have your alignment checked periodically, especially if you’ve done any other suspension work or notice uneven tire wear.
Are front and rear wheel bearings the same on the 2013 Ford Explorer?
No, front and rear wheel bearings (hub assemblies) are different parts with unique designs and part numbers for the 2013 Ford Explorer. Always ensure you purchase the correct part for the specific wheel position you are working on.
Conclusion: Drive with Confidence
Addressing a failing 2013 Ford Explorer wheel bearing is a critical maintenance task that restores your vehicle’s safety, comfort, and performance. By understanding the symptoms, gathering the right tools, and following our detailed steps, you can confidently tackle this repair yourself. Remember, safety is paramount, and knowing when to call a professional is a sign of true expertise.
Whether you’re a seasoned DIYer or just starting, empowering yourself with this knowledge means you’re better prepared for whatever the road throws your way. You’ve invested in your Explorer, and now you’ve invested in keeping it running smoothly and safely. Enjoy the quiet hum of a healthy drivetrain and the peace of mind that comes with a job well done. Stay safe and happy exploring!
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