2013 Ford Explorer Wiper Switch – Replacement And Troubleshooting

If your windshield wipers are stuck on high, refusing to turn on, or operating with a mind of their own, you likely have a faulty multi-function stalk. This comprehensive guide walks you through the symptoms, tools, and step-by-step procedures required to replace the switch and restore clear visibility to your Ford Explorer.

Few things are as frustrating as driving through a sudden downpour only to realize your wipers are failing. Whether you are navigating a muddy trail or commuting on a busy highway, reliable visibility is your primary safety requirement. Troubleshooting the 2013 ford explorer wiper switch might seem daunting because it involves the steering column, but it is a manageable project for any DIYer with the right approach.

In this guide, we will break down the electrical logic behind your wiper system and provide a clear path to repair. We promise that by the end of this article, you will have the confidence to swap out this component and save hundreds in labor costs. We will cover everything from initial diagnosis to the final “click” of the new part being installed.

Our journey through this repair will include a look at the necessary tools, a deep dive into “ghost wiping” symptoms, and a safe, step-by-step removal process. We will also discuss the Steering Column Control Module and how it interacts with your wiper controls. Let’s get your Ford back in peak operating condition.

Understanding the 2013 ford explorer wiper switch and How It Works

The wiper control in your Explorer is not just a simple mechanical lever; it is a sophisticated multi-function switch. This component communicates with the vehicle’s computer systems to manage intermittent speeds, high/low settings, and the washer fluid pump. It is essentially the primary interface between the driver and the visibility system.

Inside the steering column, this switch plugs directly into the Steering Column Control Module (SCCM). When you rotate the knob or push the button for fluid, you are sending a digital signal to the SCCM. The module then translates that signal and tells the wiper motor exactly what to do via the Body Control Module (BCM).

Because the 2013 ford explorer wiper switch is used so frequently, the internal copper contacts eventually wear down. Over time, the dielectric grease inside can become contaminated with dust or metallic shavings. This leads to “ghosting,” where the wipers trigger without input, or complete circuit failure where the wipers simply stop responding to your commands.

Common Symptoms of a Failing Wiper Switch

Identifying a failing switch early can prevent you from being stranded in a storm without visibility. One of the most common complaints among Ford owners is the “ghost wipe” phenomenon. This occurs when the wipers swipe across the glass once or twice even though the switch is in the off position.

Another red flag is the failure of the intermittent settings. You might find that the wipers work fine on high or low speed, but the variable delay settings do nothing. This usually indicates that the internal potentiometer—the part that measures the resistance of your dial turn—has failed or become disconnected internally.

Finally, pay attention to the washer fluid function. If you press the button and hear the pump working but no water hits the glass, you have a plumbing issue. However, if pressing the button results in total silence and no wiper movement, the 2013 ford explorer wiper switch is likely unable to complete the circuit to trigger the pump and the “courtesy wipe” feature.

The “Ghost Wiping” Glitch

This specific issue is often caused by a buildup of conductive debris inside the stalk. As you drive, vibrations cause this debris to bridge the contacts, tricking the SCCM into thinking you have requested a single wipe. It is a hallmark sign that the internal housing of the switch has reached the end of its service life.

Complete Loss of Intermittent Function

When the delay settings fail, it often points to a break in the communication between the stalk’s rotary dial and the control module. Since the 2013 Explorer uses a digital bus system, even a small amount of corrosion on the pins can lead to a total loss of specific speed settings.

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Tools and Parts Required for the Repair

Before you begin tearing into your steering column, you need to gather a few specific tools. Ford uses metric fasteners and specific Torx bits for their interior components. Having these ready will prevent the frustration of stopping mid-job to run to the hardware store.

  • 7mm Socket and Ratchet: Used to remove the screws holding the lower steering column shroud in place.
  • T10 Torx Screwdriver: Essential for removing the small screws that secure the switch to the SCCM.
  • Plastic Trim Removal Tools: These help pry the plastic covers apart without Marring or scratching the dashboard.
  • Dielectric Grease: Optional, but useful for ensuring a clean, moisture-resistant connection on the new pins.
  • Replacement Multi-Function Switch: Ensure you have the correct part number (often Motorcraft SW-6875 or equivalent).

When you purchase a new 2013 ford explorer wiper switch, verify if your vehicle has the “Rain Sensing” wiper option. The switches for rain-sensing models have different internal circuitry and a different icon on the stalk. Installing the wrong version can lead to compatibility issues with your vehicle’s software.

Safety Precautions: Working Near the Airbag

While you do not need to remove the steering wheel to replace the wiper stalk, you will be working in close proximity to the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS). Safety must be your first priority. An accidental airbag deployment is dangerous and extremely expensive to repair.

Begin by disconnecting the negative battery terminal. Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut and pull the cable clear of the post. Wait at least 15 minutes before starting work. This allows the capacitors in the airbag system to fully discharge, ensuring the system is inert while you handle the steering column wiring.

If you are an off-road enthusiast who frequently deals with mud and water, check your battery terminals for sulfation while you are under the hood. Cleaning these connections now will ensure that your new switch receives a clean, steady voltage signal once installed. Poor grounding can often mimic the symptoms of a bad switch.

Step-by-Step Replacement of the 2013 ford explorer wiper switch

Now that the battery is disconnected and the tools are laid out, we can begin the removal. Follow these steps carefully to avoid snapping the plastic clips that hold the interior trim together. Patience is your best tool during this phase of the project.

  1. Lower the Steering Column: Use the tilt/telescope lever to pull the steering wheel all the way out and down. This provides the maximum amount of space to work on the upper shroud.
  2. Remove Shroud Screws: Locate the three 7mm screws on the underside of the steering column. These are often recessed deep in the plastic, so a small extension for your ratchet may be helpful.
  3. Separate the Shrouds: Using your plastic trim tool, gently pop the seam between the top and bottom halves of the column cover. Start near the steering wheel and work your way back toward the dashboard.
  4. Access the Switch: Once the top cover is removed, you will see the 2013 ford explorer wiper switch seated on the left-hand side of the column. It is held in place by two T10 Torx screws.
  5. Disconnect and Remove: Unplug the electrical connector from the rear of the switch. Remove the two Torx screws and slide the old switch straight out of its slot in the SCCM.

When installing the new unit, slide it firmly into the tracks until you feel it seat against the module. Reinstall the T10 screws snugly, but do not overtighten them, as the plastic housing can crack. Reconnect the wiring harness and listen for the “click” that confirms a secure lock.

Testing the New Installation

Before snapping the plastic shrouds back together, it is wise to perform a functional test. Reconnect your negative battery terminal and turn the ignition to the “ON” position. Test every single function on the stalk, including high, low, and all intermittent delay steps.

Press the washer fluid button to ensure the pump engages and the wipers perform their courtesy wipes. Cycle through the turn signals and high beams as well, since these functions often share the same internal grounding path within the steering column. If everything works as expected, you can proceed to reassemble the trim.

Align the top and bottom shrouds carefully. Ensure the rubber dust boot around the ignition or the steering wheel is properly tucked into its groove. Snap the pieces together and reinstall the three 7mm screws from the bottom. Your 2013 ford explorer wiper switch replacement is now complete.

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Advanced Troubleshooting: Is it the Switch or the Motor?

Sometimes, a new switch doesn’t solve the problem. If you’ve replaced the stalk and the wipers still don’t move, the issue may lie further down the line. In the 2013 Explorer, the wiper motor itself contains a small logic board that can fail due to moisture intrusion.

You can test the motor by checking for power at the wiper motor harness under the cowl. Use a multimeter to see if voltage reaches the motor when the switch is turned on. If the switch is sending power but the motor remains stationary, the motor’s internal park switch or the motor windings themselves are likely burnt out.

For those who take their Explorers off-road, check the wiper linkage (also known as the transmission). Mud and debris can clog the pivot points, causing the motor to draw too much amperage and blow a fuse or trip a circuit breaker in the BCM. Always check your fuses (specifically in the engine bay power distribution box) before assuming a part is dead.

Checking the Fuse and Relay

Consult your owner’s manual to locate the specific fuse for the wiper system. If the fuse is blown, the switch won’t be able to do anything. If the fuse blows again immediately after replacement, you have a short circuit either in the wiring or the motor itself.

Inspecting the Cowl Drains

If your wiper motor has failed, check the drains at the base of the windshield. If these are clogged with leaves or pine needles, water can back up and submerge the motor. This is a common cause of premature failure in Ford utility vehicles.

Frequently Asked Questions About the 2013 ford explorer wiper switch

Can I clean the old switch instead of replacing it?

In some cases, spraying electronic contact cleaner into the crevices of the switch can temporarily fix “ghost wiping.” However, this is usually a short-term solution. Once the internal copper tracks are worn thin, the only permanent fix is a full replacement of the unit.

Does the steering wheel need to be removed?

No, you do not need to remove the steering wheel to replace the 2013 ford explorer wiper switch. The shroud is designed to be removed in two pieces, allowing the switch to slide out sideways. This makes the job much safer and easier for a DIY mechanic.

Why do my wipers stay on even when the switch is off?

This is almost always a sign of an internal short in the switch or a faulty park sensor inside the wiper motor. If the motor doesn’t know the wipers have reached the bottom of the windshield, it will keep them running. Replacing the switch is the first and easiest step in diagnosing this.

Are the turn signal and wiper switch the same part?

On the 2013 Ford Explorer, the turn signals, high beams, and wipers are all integrated into one “multi-function” assembly on the left side of the steering wheel. If any one of those systems fails, you typically have to replace the entire stalk assembly.

Summary of Key Takeaways

Maintaining your 2013 ford explorer wiper switch is essential for safe driving. By understanding the symptoms of failure—like intermittent lag or ghost wiping—you can address the problem before it becomes a total loss of visibility. The repair is straightforward, requiring only basic tools like a 7mm socket and a T10 Torx bit.

Remember to always prioritize safety by disconnecting the battery and waiting for the SRS system to discharge. Whether you are prepping for a cross-country road trip or just keeping your daily driver in top shape, taking care of these small electrical components ensures your Ford remains a reliable partner on the road. Don’t let a simple switch stand between you and a clear view of the path ahead.

If you encounter resistance or find that the wiring harness looks melted or damaged, do not hesitate to consult a certified automotive technician. Electrical issues can occasionally stem from the BCM, which requires specialized diagnostic software to program. Stay safe, keep your windshield clear, and enjoy the drive!

Robert Lozano
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