2013 Ford F 150 Xlt Fuel Capacity – Complete Tank Size And Range Guide
The 2013 Ford F-150 XLT typically features either a standard 26-gallon tank or an optional 36-gallon extended-range tank, depending on the wheelbase and engine configuration. Identifying your specific capacity is essential for calculating towing range, planning off-road excursions, and maintaining the health of your fuel delivery system.
Agree: We have all felt that slight pang of anxiety when the low fuel light flickers on while hauling a heavy trailer or navigating a remote trail. Promise: Understanding your 2013 ford f 150 xlt fuel capacity is the first step toward mastering your truck’s range and ensuring you never end up stranded.
Preview: In this guide, we will break down the different tank sizes available for the XLT trim, how to verify your specific build, and how to maintain your fuel system. We will also dive into common 2013-specific issues like the infamous Fuse 27 problem that every owner should know about.
Identifying Your 2013 ford f 150 xlt fuel capacity
Ford offered two primary fuel tank configurations for the 2013 XLT model year. The size of your tank largely depends on the cab style, bed length, and whether the original buyer selected the Max Trailer Tow Package or the Off-Road Package.
The standard tank for most 2WD and 4WD configurations is the 26-gallon unit. This is commonly found on Regular Cab and SuperCab models with shorter wheelbases. It provides a decent balance between weight savings and driving range for daily commuting and light-duty tasks.
However, many XLT owners enjoy the 36-gallon extended-range tank. This was often bundled with the 3.5L EcoBoost engine or the 5.0L V8 when equipped with specific towing packages. Having an extra 10 gallons of fuel volume can be a game-changer when you are pulling a camper through the mountains.
The Standard 26-Gallon Tank
The 26-gallon tank is the “bread and butter” for the F-150 line. If you have a 3.7L V6 engine, this is almost certainly the tank you have under the frame. It is compact and keeps the curb weight of the truck lower, which slightly improves payload capacity.
For city drivers, this tank is usually sufficient. However, if you are an off-roader, you may find yourself carrying jerry cans more often. A 26-gallon tank combined with a thirsty V8 in 4-Low can disappear faster than you might expect.
The Extended Range 36-Gallon Tank
The 36-gallon tank is highly coveted in the used truck market. It allows for a massive cruising range, sometimes exceeding 600 miles on the highway with the right axle ratio. This tank is physically longer and occupies more space along the frame rail.
If your XLT has the FX4 package or the 4×4 Off-Road sticker, there is a high probability you have this larger capacity. It provides peace of mind when exploring backcountry trails where the nearest gas station is hours away. Always verify this by checking your window sticker or tracking your fill-up volume.
How to Confirm Your Tank Size
The easiest way to check your 2013 ford f 150 xlt fuel capacity is to wait until your gauge reads nearly empty and then fill it up. If the pump clicks off at 22 or 23 gallons, you have the 26-gallon tank. If it takes 32 to 34 gallons, you have the 36-gallon version.
You can also use a VIN decoder online or visit a Ford dealership parts counter. By providing your Vehicle Identification Number, they can pull up the original build sheet. This document will list every factory-installed component, including the specific fuel tank size.
Why Tank Size Matters for Off-Roading and Towing
For the weekend warrior or the dedicated off-roader, fuel capacity is a safety metric. When you are aired down and crawling over rocks, your miles per gallon (MPG) will drop into the single digits. Knowing your exact capacity allows you to calculate a “point of no return.”
Towing presents a similar challenge. A 2013 F-150 XLT towing a 7,000-pound travel trailer might only achieve 9-11 MPG. On a 26-gallon tank, your effective range is only about 200 miles before you need to start hunting for a station that can accommodate a long rig.
Furthermore, fuel adds significant weight to your vehicle. Gasoline weighs approximately 6 pounds per gallon. A full 36-gallon tank adds about 216 pounds to your chassis, while the 26-gallon tank adds only 156 pounds. This weight sits low and to the side, which can slightly affect your center of gravity.
Calculating Your Real-World Range
To calculate your range, do not rely solely on the “Distance to Empty” (DTE) display. These systems use a moving average of your last 500 miles. If you have been driving empty on the highway and then hook up a trailer, the DTE will be dangerously optimistic.
Instead, manually track your MPG over a few tanks of fuel. Multiply your average MPG by your 2013 ford f 150 xlt fuel capacity, then subtract a 3-gallon safety buffer. This gives you a reliable “hard floor” for your trips.
Payload and Fuel Weight
Remember that fuel weight counts against your total payload capacity. If you are pushing the limits of your XLT’s hauling ability, that extra 10 gallons in the extended tank represents 60 pounds of cargo you cannot carry. For most, the range is worth the trade-off.
Common Fuel System Issues in the 2013 F-150
While the 2013 F-150 is a robust machine, it has specific quirks regarding its fuel delivery system. As an owner or DIYer, you need to be aware of these common failure points to avoid being stranded on the side of the road.
The most notorious issue is “Fuse 27.” This is a small 20-amp fuse located in the battery junction box under the hood. It powers the fuel pump relay, and in many 2013 models, the fuse socket can overheat and melt, causing the truck to crank but never start.
Another frequent culprit is the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM). Located on a crossmember above the spare tire, this module is prone to corrosion. If the aluminum housing rots through, moisture enters the electronics and shuts down the fuel pump entirely.
The Fuse 27 Relocation Kit
If you own a 2013 XLT, you should proactively install a Fuse 27 relocation kit. This kit moves the fuel pump power source to a larger, more robust terminal in the fuse box. It is a relatively simple DIY job that requires some basic soldering skills.
Ignoring this issue is a gamble. The fuse often fails without warning, usually while you are driving at highway speeds. Replacing the fuse is only a temporary fix; the underlying issue is the heat buildup in the original small terminal.
Addressing the Fuel Pump Driver Module
Checking your FPDM is easy. Lower your spare tire and look at the small black box bolted to the frame. If you see white powdery corrosion or cracks in the metal, replace it immediately with an updated version that includes rubber stand-offs.
These stand-offs create a gap between the module and the steel frame. This prevents galvanic corrosion, which is the primary cause of failure. It is a 15-minute fix that can save you a very expensive tow bill.
The “Check Fuel Fill Inlet” Message
The 2013 F-150 uses a capless fuel filler system. While convenient, the seal can occasionally get stuck open by dust or debris. This triggers a “Check Fuel Fill Inlet” message on your dashboard and may eventually cause a Check Engine Light for an EVAP leak.
To fix this, use the plastic funnel located under your rear seat (or with your jack tools) to manually open and close the flap several times. This often clears the debris and reseals the system. If the light stays on, you may need to clean the seal with a bit of compressed air.
Maintaining Your F-150’s Fuel Efficiency
Maximizing the utility of your 2013 ford f 150 xlt fuel capacity means keeping your engine running efficiently. Even small maintenance oversights can lead to a 10-15% drop in fuel economy, which adds up quickly over a long road trip.
Start with your air filter. A clogged filter forces the engine to work harder to pull in air, especially on the 3.5L EcoBoost models. These twin-turbocharged engines are very sensitive to air restriction and will pull back timing, hurting your MPG.
Spark plugs are another critical area. Ford recommends a 100,000-mile interval, but many enthusiasts suggest changing them every 50,000 miles, especially on EcoBoost engines. Worn plugs cause micro-misfires that waste fuel and can eventually damage your catalytic converters.
Choosing the Right Fuel Grade
While the 2013 XLT is designed to run on 87-octane unleaded gasoline, the owner’s manual notes that premium fuel (91 octane or higher) is recommended for “severe duty” usage. This includes heavy towing or driving in extreme heat.
Higher octane fuel allows the knock sensors to advance the engine timing further. This results in more power and, in some cases, slightly better fuel economy when the engine is under heavy load. For daily driving, however, 87 octane is perfectly fine.
Tire Pressure and Aerodynamics
Under-inflated tires are one of the biggest “fuel thieves” on a full-size truck. Check your tire pressure monthly. Even a 5 PSI drop across all four tires can noticeably increase rolling resistance and decrease your total range per tank.
If you have added a leveling kit or larger off-road tires, your fuel economy will naturally suffer. The 2013 F-150 was designed with a specific rake to improve airflow. Leveling the truck increases the frontal area and creates more aerodynamic drag at highway speeds.
Step-by-Step: Replacing the Fuel Filter
Technically, the 2013 F-150 uses a “lifetime” fuel filter located inside the fuel tank as part of the pump assembly. However, if you have high mileage or suspect you’ve filled up with contaminated gas, you may eventually need to drop the tank to service it.
- Relieve Fuel Pressure: Remove the fuel pump fuse (or the relocated Fuse 27) and start the engine. Let it run until it stalls to bleed the pressure from the fuel rails.
- Disconnect the Battery: Always disconnect the negative terminal to prevent any sparks while working near open gasoline.
- Drain the Tank: If the tank is full, it will be incredibly heavy. Use a siphon pump to remove as much fuel as possible into approved containers.
- Support the Tank: Use a transmission jack or a floor jack with a large piece of plywood to support the weight of the tank before unbolting the fuel tank straps.
- Disconnect Lines: Carefully disconnect the filler neck, the EVAP lines, and the electrical connector for the fuel pump. Be prepared for a small amount of residual fuel to leak out.
This is a job that requires patience and a fire extinguisher nearby. If you are not comfortable working with fuel vapors, this is a task best left to a licensed professional mechanic. Safety is the priority when dealing with a pressurized fuel system.
Essential Tools for Fuel System DIY
If you plan on performing your own maintenance or repairs, having the right tools will make the process much smoother. For the 2013 F-150, you don’t need a massive shop, but a few specialized items are very helpful.
- Fuel Line Disconnect Tool: These small plastic or metal rings are necessary to release the “quick-connect” fittings used on Ford fuel lines.
- OBD-II Scanner: A good scan tool (like an ELM327 with FORScan software) can read fuel trim data and fuel pressure sensor readings in real-time.
- Digital Multimeter: Essential for testing the voltage at the Fuel Pump Driver Module or checking for continuity in the fuel pump circuit.
- Torque Wrench: Necessary for properly tightening the fuel tank strap bolts and the fuel pump locking ring.
Investing in a fuel pressure gauge that taps into the Schrader valve on the fuel rail is also a wise move. It allows you to instantly diagnose a failing pump versus an electrical issue without guessing.
Frequently Asked Questions About 2013 ford f 150 xlt fuel capacity
Can I swap my 26-gallon tank for a 36-gallon tank?
Yes, it is a common modification. However, you will need the larger tank, new mounting straps, and a different fuel pump assembly. Additionally, you must use software like FORScan to update the truck’s computer so the fuel gauge and “Distance to Empty” read correctly.
What is the “reserve” amount when the light comes on?
In most 2013 F-150s, the low fuel warning triggers when there are approximately 1/16th of a tank remaining. For the 26-gallon tank, this is about 1.5 to 2 gallons. For the 36-gallon tank, you may have 2 to 3 gallons left. Do not rely on this; fuel pumps rely on being submerged in gas to stay cool.
Does the 2013 F-150 XLT have a fuel shut-off switch?
Unlike older Ford trucks that had a physical “inertia switch,” the 2013 model uses the Restraints Control Module to shut off the fuel pump in the event of a collision. If your fuel is cut off after a hard bump, you may need a scan tool to reset the system.
Why does my fuel gauge stay on full for a long time?
This is often due to the shape of the tank. The fuel sending unit float stays at the top of its travel for the first few gallons. On the 36-gallon tank, you might drive 75 miles before the needle even moves. This is normal behavior for this generation of F-Series trucks.
Maximize Your Range and Stay Safe
Understanding your 2013 ford f 150 xlt fuel capacity is more than just a trivia point for your truck. It is the foundation of responsible ownership, whether you are a daily commuter or a hardcore off-road enthusiast. By knowing your limits, you can push your adventures further without the fear of running dry.
Always keep an eye on your fuel system’s health. Address the Fuse 27 issue early, check your driver module for corrosion, and keep your engine tuned for peak efficiency. A well-maintained F-150 is a tool that will serve you for hundreds of thousands of miles.
The 2013 XLT remains one of the most capable and popular trucks on the road today. With the right knowledge and a proactive approach to preventative maintenance, you can ensure that your truck is always ready for the next haul or the next trail. Stay safe, keep your tank full, and enjoy the ride!
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