2013 Ford F150 Wheel Bearing – Stop The Noise And Fix Your Hub
Replacing a failing wheel bearing on your 2013 Ford F-150 is essential for maintaining vehicle safety and preventing costly damage to your drivetrain. This guide provides a comprehensive walkthrough for diagnosing the issue, selecting the right hub assembly, and completing the installation with professional results.
Do you hear a persistent humming or growling noise coming from your front end that gets louder as you accelerate? You are not alone, as many truck owners eventually face the reality of a worn-out hub assembly.
Replacing your 2013 ford f150 wheel bearing is a manageable project for a weekend mechanic, and doing it yourself can save you hundreds in labor costs. This article will guide you through every step of the process, from initial diagnosis to the final torque of the lug nuts.
We will focus on the front hub assemblies, which are the most common failure point on these trucks, especially for those who frequent off-road trails or carry heavy loads. Let’s get your F-150 back to its quiet, smooth, and reliable self.
How to Diagnose a Worn 2013 ford f150 wheel bearing
Before you start tearing into your suspension, you need to confirm that the bearing is actually the culprit. A failing bearing usually gives off a rhythmic “whirring” or “growling” sound that changes pitch when you steer the truck left or right.
If the noise gets louder when you veer left, the right-side bearing is likely the one under load and failing. Conversely, if the noise increases when veering right, check the left-side assembly first.
The Physical Shake Test
To confirm the diagnosis, safely lift the front of the truck with a floor jack and secure it on jack stands. Grab the tire at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions and try to wiggle it back and forth.
Any noticeable play or “clunking” indicates that the internal races of the bearing have worn down. A healthy bearing should have zero movement when subjected to this manual force.
Checking for Heat and Resistance
After a drive, you can also carefully check the temperature of the wheel hub with an infrared thermometer. A failing bearing generates excessive friction, which translates into significant heat compared to the healthy side.
You can also spin the wheel by hand while the truck is lifted. Listen for any gritty or crunching sounds and feel for resistance that suggests the internal steel balls are no longer gliding smoothly.
Essential Tools for the Job
Having the right tools on hand will prevent a quick job from turning into a day-long headache. Most of these are standard in a DIYer’s kit, but a few specialized items are necessary for the F-150 platform.
- Large Torque Wrench: Capable of reaching at least 150 lb-ft.
- 36mm Socket: Specifically for the large axle nut on 4WD models.
- 18mm and 21mm Sockets: For caliper and bracket bolts.
- Breaker Bar: To loosen stubborn, rusted fasteners.
- Bungee Cords: To hang the brake caliper safely out of the way.
- Anti-Seize Lubricant: To prevent the new hub from sticking in the future.
If your truck is a 4WD model, you will also need a 8mm socket to remove the small dust cap covering the axle nut. Don’t forget a can of high-quality penetrating oil to soak the bolts a few hours before you start.
Step-by-Step Replacement Guide
Once you have your new 2013 ford f150 wheel bearing ready, it is time to begin the teardown. Ensure the vehicle is on level ground and the rear wheels are properly choked for safety.
1. Remove the Wheel and Brake Components
Loosen the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground, then lift the truck and remove the wheel completely. Next, remove the two large bolts holding the brake caliper bracket to the knuckle.
Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose, as this can cause internal damage to the line. Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the upper control arm or the frame rail.
2. Remove the Brake Rotor
Slide the brake rotor off the wheel studs. If it is rusted in place, a few taps with a rubber mallet around the center “hat” of the rotor should break it loose.
Be careful not to hit the actual braking surface of the rotor with a metal hammer. If you plan on reusing the rotors, keep them clean and free of grease or oil during this process.
3. Disconnect the ABS Sensor and Axle Nut
Locate the ABS wheel speed sensor wire and follow it back to the connector near the inner fender well. Disconnect it and unclip the wire from its mounting points on the knuckle.
On 4WD models, remove the small dust cap and use your 36mm socket to remove the axle nut. You may need a helper to hold the brakes or use a pry bar between the studs to keep the hub from spinning.
Removing the Old Hub Assembly
The hub is held into the steering knuckle by four large bolts accessed from the back side of the knuckle. These are often very tight and may be coated in road grime or rust.
Use your breaker bar and an 18mm socket to crack these bolts loose. It is often helpful to turn the steering wheel all the way to one side to gain better leverage and clearance for your tools.
Dealing with a Seized Hub
In many cases, the hub assembly will be “welded” to the knuckle by corrosion. If it doesn’t pull out by hand, you can use a hub puller or carefully tap the back of the hub flange with a hammer.
Avoid hitting the steering knuckle itself, as it is made of cast material and can crack. A light coating of penetrating oil around the mating surface can help speed up this part of the job.
Cleaning the Knuckle Bore
Once the old hub is out, use a wire brush or fine-grit sandpaper to clean the inside of the steering knuckle bore. Removing the rust ensures the new 2013 ford f150 wheel bearing seats perfectly flat.
Apply a thin layer of anti-seize to the bore before sliding the new unit in. This small step will make the job ten times easier if you ever have to replace the bearing again in the future.
Installing the New Hub Assembly
Carefully slide the new hub into the knuckle, ensuring the ABS sensor wire is positioned correctly so it doesn’t get pinched. If you have a 4WD truck, make sure the splines of the CV axle align with the hub.
Thread the four mounting bolts back in by hand to avoid cross-threading. Once they are snug, tighten them in a criss-cross pattern to ensure the hub is pulled in evenly against the knuckle.
Torque Specifications and Final Assembly
Precision is vital when it comes to suspension components. Torque the four hub mounting bolts to 129 lb-ft. This ensures the assembly remains secure under the heavy stress of truck operation.
For 4WD models, the axle nut should be torqued to 20 lb-ft, then turned an additional 45 degrees. Reinstall the dust cap, the brake rotor, and the caliper bracket (torque bracket bolts to 184 lb-ft).
The Importance of the IWE System (4WD Only)
If your truck is 4WD, be very careful with the Integrated Wheel End (IWE) vacuum actuator. This plastic component sits behind the hub and engages the front wheels when you switch to 4H or 4L.
Ensure the vacuum lines are reconnected and not cracked. If the IWE is misaligned during hub installation, it can break, leading to a loud grinding noise even with a brand-new wheel bearing.
Why Quality Parts Matter
When shopping for a new 2013 ford f150 wheel bearing, you will see a wide range of prices. While it is tempting to go for the cheapest option, the wheel bearing supports the entire weight of your truck.
Cheap bearings often use inferior seals and low-grade grease, which can lead to premature failure within a year. Look for reputable brands like Moog, Timken, or Motorcraft to ensure longevity.
Premium bearings also include high-quality ABS sensors. A faulty sensor in a cheap hub can trigger your traction control and ABS lights, forcing you to do the entire job over again just to fix a sensor issue.
Frequently Asked Questions About 2013 ford f150 wheel bearing
How long should a wheel bearing last on an F-150?
Generally, you can expect a factory wheel bearing to last between 100,000 and 150,000 miles. However, if you frequently drive in deep water, mud, or use heavy offset wheels, they may wear out much sooner.
Can I drive with a bad wheel bearing?
It is not recommended. A failing bearing can eventually seize, causing the wheel to lock up or even detach from the vehicle. If you hear the tell-tale growling noise, address it as soon as possible to maintain road safety.
Do I need an alignment after replacing the hub?
Since you are not adjusting the tie rods or control arms, a hub replacement typically does not require a new alignment. However, if you notice the truck pulling or the steering wheel is off-center, it is a good idea to have it checked.
Is the hub different for 2WD and 4WD models?
Yes, they are different parts. The 4WD hub has internal splines to accept the CV axle, while the 2WD hub is solid in the center. Always double-check your truck’s drivetrain before ordering parts.
Final Thoughts on Your Repair
Replacing your 2013 ford f150 wheel bearing is a rewarding project that restores the quiet, confident ride your truck was meant to have. By following these steps and using the correct torque specs, you ensure a professional-grade repair.
Always remember to work safely by using jack stands and wearing eye protection. Taking the time to clean the mounting surfaces and using anti-seize will pay dividends for years to come.
If you encounter a bolt that won’t budge or a hub that is severely seized, don’t be afraid to use heat from a torch or consult a professional mechanic. Your safety and the integrity of your truck are the top priorities.
Now that you have the knowledge, grab your tools and get that F-150 back in peak condition. Stay safe and keep your truck on the road!
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