2013 Ford Fusion Rear Brakes – A Complete DIY Replacement Guide
Servicing the 2013 ford fusion rear brakes involves understanding both mechanical hardware and, in many trims, electronic parking brake systems. This guide provides the exact steps and professional tips needed to replace your pads and rotors safely at home.
Agreeing to tackle your own brake job can save you hundreds of dollars in labor costs. Whether you are dealing with a pulsating pedal or a high-pitched squeal, the 2013 ford fusion rear brakes are a manageable project for any DIYer with the right tools.
In this guide, we will preview the specific tools required, such as the 7mm hex bit and the caliper wind-back tool. We will also walk through the crucial “Maintenance Mode” for models equipped with an electronic parking brake (EPB).
By the end of this article, you will have the confidence to perform a professional-grade brake service. Let’s get your Ford Fusion back on the road with smooth, silent stopping power.
Essential Tools for 2013 ford fusion rear brakes Service
Before you loosen a single lug nut, gather all the necessary equipment. Having the right tools prevents mid-job frustration and ensures a safe installation.
You will need a floor jack and high-quality jack stands. Never work on a vehicle supported only by a hydraulic jack, as these can fail without warning.
Specific to the Ford Fusion, you need a 7mm hex (Allen) bit. This tool is necessary to remove the caliper guide pins, which are often hidden behind plastic dust caps.
A standard C-clamp will not work for these rear calipers. Because the parking brake is integrated into the caliper, the piston must be rotated and compressed simultaneously.
Keep a bottle of high-temperature brake grease nearby. You must lubricate the slide pins and the contact points where the pads touch the bracket to prevent brake chatter.
Lastly, ensure you have a torque wrench. Tightening fasteners to the correct specification is the only way to guarantee they won’t vibrate loose over time.
Identifying Your Parking Brake System
The 2013 model year was a transition period for Ford. Your Fusion might have a traditional cable-actuated parking brake or a modern Electronic Parking Brake (EPB).
Check your center console for a small “P” switch. If you see a button instead of a pull-lever, your car is equipped with the EPB system.
Servicing 2013 ford fusion rear brakes with an EPB requires a special software handshake. You must put the car into “Brake Maintenance Mode” before touching the calipers.
If you have a manual lever, you skip the electronic steps. However, you will still need the mechanical wind-back tool to retract the caliper piston manually.
Entering Brake Maintenance Mode (EPB Only)
Turn the ignition to the “On” position but do not start the engine. Press and hold the accelerator pedal to the floor while simultaneously pushing the EPB switch down.
While holding both, turn the ignition “Off” and then back to “On” within five seconds. You will hear the rear motors retracting and see a notification on the dash.
Once the message “Brake Maintenance Mode” appears, it is safe to proceed. This step prevents the electronic motor from pushing the piston out while the caliper is removed.
Step-by-Step Removal of 2013 ford fusion rear brakes
Begin by loosening the lug nuts while the car is still on the ground. Once loose, jack up the rear of the car and secure it on sturdy jack stands.
Remove the wheels and set them aside. Locate the two plastic caps on the back of the brake caliper; these protect the internal guide pins from road salt and debris.
Pop the caps off with a flathead screwdriver. Use your 7mm hex bit to unscrew the guide pins completely, then pull them out of the caliper housing.
Use a pry bar to gently lift the caliper off the rotor. Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber hose, as this can cause internal damage to the line.
Secure the caliper to the rear suspension spring using a bungee cord or a heavy-duty zip tie. This keeps the weight off the hose and out of your way.
Remove the old brake pads from the bracket. If you are replacing the rotors, you must also remove the two 13mm or 15mm bolts holding the caliper bracket in place.
Prepping the Hub and New Rotors
Once the old rotor is off, look at the wheel hub surface. It is likely covered in surface rust and corrosion that can prevent the new rotor from sitting flat.
Use a wire brush to clean the hub until it is smooth. A flat mating surface is essential to prevent pedal pulsation or “warped” rotor sensations later on.
New rotors come from the factory coated in a thin layer of oil to prevent rust. You must remove this oil using a generous amount of brake parts cleaner.
Spray both sides of the rotor and wipe them down with a clean rag. If you leave the oil on, it will contaminate your new pads and ruin your stopping power.
Slide the new rotor onto the wheel studs. Pro tip: Thread one lug nut onto a stud by hand to hold the rotor flush against the hub while you work.
Compressing the Caliper Piston Safely
If you have a manual parking brake, use your wind-back tool kit. Find the adapter that matches the two notches on the face of the piston.
Slowly turn the tool clockwise while applying light pressure. The piston should thread back into the housing smoothly; never force it if you feel heavy resistance.
For EPB-equipped models in Maintenance Mode, you can often push the piston straight back. However, many technicians still prefer the rotation method to ensure the internal screw is seated.
Check the rubber dust boot around the piston. If it is torn or cracked, moisture will enter and cause the caliper to seize up within a few months.
Apply a thin layer of silicone grease to the piston face. This reduces noise and allows the pad to shift slightly without binding during engagement.
Installing the New Hardware and Pads
Most high-quality brake kits for the 2013 ford fusion rear brakes include new stainless steel hardware clips. Always replace the old, crusty clips with these new ones.
Apply a small amount of brake grease to the tabs of the pads where they slide into the clips. Avoid getting any grease on the friction material itself.
Slide the pads into the bracket. Ensure they sit level and are not tilted, as this can cause uneven wear and “tapering” of the pad material.
Reinstall the caliper bracket over the rotor. Use a drop of blue thread locker on the bracket bolts and torque them to the manufacturer’s specification.
Slide the caliper over the new pads. If it doesn’t fit, the piston likely needs to be compressed a few more millimeters to clear the extra thickness of the new pads.
Final Assembly and Torque Specs
Clean the guide pins with a rag and apply a fresh coating of silicone-based grease. Insert them through the caliper and tighten them with your 7mm hex bit.
Do not over-tighten the guide pins, as the threads in the bracket are relatively soft. Snug them down firmly and replace the plastic dust caps.
Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. This ensures the wheel sits perfectly centered on the hub and prevents vibration.
Lower the vehicle to the ground and perform a final torque on the lug nuts. For the 2013 Fusion, the lug nut torque is typically 100 lb-ft.
If you used Brake Maintenance Mode, you must now exit it. Turn the ignition “On,” press the accelerator, pull the EPB switch up, and cycle the ignition.
You will hear the motors calibrate. The parking brake light will flash and then turn solid or disappear once the system has successfully reset the air gap.
Bedding in Your New Rear Brakes
The “break-in” or bedding process is vital for long-term performance. It transfers a thin layer of friction material from the pad to the rotor surface.
Find a safe, empty road. Accelerate to 35 mph and apply the brakes firmly to slow down to 5 mph, but do not come to a complete stop.
Repeat this process 4 to 5 times. You may smell a slight “burning” odor; this is normal as the resins in the pads cure under the heat of friction.
After the initial cycles, drive for a few miles without using the brakes heavily to allow them to cool. This prevents the pads from “glazing” and ensures consistent stopping power.
Check your brake fluid level in the reservoir. Since you pushed the pistons back, the fluid level may have risen; ensure it is between the minimum and maximum lines.
Frequently Asked Questions About 2013 ford fusion rear brakes
Why do my rear brakes wear out faster than the front?
Modern vehicles like the Fusion use “Electronic Brakeforce Distribution.” This system often applies the 2013 ford fusion rear brakes first to prevent the nose from diving, which can lead to faster rear pad wear.
Can I use a C-clamp to compress the rear pistons?
No. Using a C-clamp on these calipers will damage the internal parking brake mechanism. You must use a tool that rotates the piston as it compresses.
What should I do if the Brake Maintenance Mode won’t activate?
Ensure your battery is fully charged. Low voltage often prevents the electronic parking brake module from entering or exiting service modes correctly.
Do I need to bleed the brakes after changing pads?
If you did not open the hydraulic system (the bleeder valve or brake lines), you generally do not need to bleed them. However, a fluid flush is recommended every two years.
What is the difference between ceramic and semi-metallic pads?
Ceramic pads are quieter and produce less dust, making them ideal for daily commuting. Semi-metallic pads offer better heat dissipation but can be noisier and harder on the rotors.
Final Thoughts for the DIY Mechanic
Taking care of your 2013 ford fusion rear brakes is a rewarding way to maintain your vehicle’s safety. By following these steps, you ensure that every component is cleaned, lubricated, and torqued to spec.
Remember that brakes are your car’s most critical safety system. If you encounter a seized bolt you can’t remove, or if the piston refuses to retract, do not hesitate to consult a professional mechanic.
Stay patient, work methodically, and always double-check your work before heading out for a test drive. With fresh pads and rotors, your Fusion will provide a quiet and confident driving experience for miles to come.
Stay safe, keep your tools clean, and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done!
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