2013 Ford Fusion Rear Lower Control Arm – A DIY Replacement Guide
Replacing a 2013 ford fusion rear lower control arm is a common maintenance task for addressing suspension clunks and uneven tire wear. This guide provides a step-by-step approach to safely removing the old component and installing a new assembly to restore your vehicle’s handling.
If you have noticed a persistent clunking noise when driving over bumps, or your car feels unstable at highway speeds, your suspension might be calling for help. Dealing with a worn 2013 ford fusion rear lower control arm is a rite of passage for many owners who prefer to handle their own vehicle maintenance.
You do not need a degree in mechanical engineering to get this job done, but you do need the right mindset and safety gear. Let’s walk through the process of diagnosing, removing, and installing these critical suspension components so you can get back on the road with confidence.
Understanding the Role of the 2013 ford fusion rear lower control arm
The control arm acts as the vital bridge between your vehicle’s frame and the wheel assembly. It manages the vertical movement of the wheel while maintaining proper alignment during cornering and braking.
Over time, the rubber bushings inside the arm begin to degrade due to heat, road salt, and constant vibration. Once these bushings tear, you will experience “play” in the wheel, leading to poor handling and accelerated tire degradation.
Ignoring these symptoms can lead to more expensive repairs, such as damage to your shocks or uneven wear on your expensive tires. Addressing the issue early ensures that your daily commute remains safe and comfortable.
Signs Your Suspension Needs Attention
Before you commit to buying parts, it is important to confirm that the control arm is indeed the culprit. Suspension components often work in tandem, so a proper inspection is non-negotiable.
- Audible Clunking: A metallic knocking sound when traveling over speed bumps or potholes.
- Vague Steering: The car feels like it is “wandering” or drifting, especially when you hit a groove in the road.
- Uneven Tire Wear: If the inside or outside edges of your rear tires are wearing down faster than the center, your alignment is likely compromised.
- Visual Inspection: Use a flashlight to look at the rubber bushings. If you see cracks, dry rot, or separation from the metal sleeve, it is time for a replacement.
Tools Required for the Job
Having the right tools ready prevents mid-job frustration. You aren’t just swapping a bolt; you are dealing with components under tension.
Ensure you have a high-quality floor jack and at least two heavy-duty jack stands. Never rely on the emergency jack that came with your spare tire for suspension work.
- Metric socket set (specifically 15mm, 18mm, and 21mm).
- Breaker bar for stubborn, rusted bolts.
- Penetrating oil like PB Blaster to loosen corroded threads.
- Torque wrench to ensure everything is tightened to factory specifications.
- A pry bar for aligning the new control arm into the subframe.
Removing the Old Component
Start by lifting the rear of the vehicle and securing it firmly on jack stands. Remove the rear wheel to give yourself plenty of working room.
Spray all mounting bolts with penetrating oil and let them sit for at least 15 minutes. Rusted bolts are the most common cause of delays in this repair, so don’t rush this step.
Use your socket set to remove the bolts connecting the arm to the subframe and the knuckle. You may need to use a second wrench to hold the nut on the opposite side while you loosen the bolt.
Installing the New Control Arm
Once the old part is out, compare it side-by-side with your new unit. Ensure the mounting points match perfectly before moving forward.
Slide the new arm into position. Start the bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading, which can be a costly mistake. Tighten them just enough to hold the piece in place, but do not fully torque them yet.
Pro Tip: Most suspension bushings should be tightened only when the vehicle is at “ride height.” If you tighten them while the suspension is hanging down, you will twist the rubber and cause premature failure of the new part.
Finalizing the Repair and Alignment
After installing the arm, lower the car until the weight of the vehicle is resting on the suspension. Now, use your torque wrench to tighten the mounting bolts to the manufacturer’s specified settings.
Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Before you head back out onto the highway, you must get a professional alignment.
Even if the new arm looks identical, replacing it changes the geometry of your rear suspension. A professional alignment technician will ensure your thrust angle and camber are within factory specs to protect your tires.
Frequently Asked Questions About the 2013 Ford Fusion Rear Lower Control Arm
Do I need to replace the control arm on both sides?
While not strictly mandatory, it is highly recommended. If the rubber bushings on one side have failed, the other side is likely not far behind. Replacing both ensures balanced handling.
Can I just replace the bushings instead of the whole arm?
Technically yes, but it requires a hydraulic press and specialized tools to remove the old bushings. For most DIYers, replacing the entire control arm assembly is faster, easier, and more cost-effective.
Is an alignment really necessary after this job?
Yes. Even a slight variation in the position of the new control arm will affect your vehicle’s tracking. Skipping the alignment will lead to uneven tire wear that costs far more than the alignment service itself.
What if a bolt snaps during removal?
This is the nightmare scenario, but it happens. If a bolt snaps, you will need a drill with cobalt bits and an extraction kit, or you may need to take the subframe to a machine shop. Always use plenty of penetrating oil to avoid this.
Tackling your own suspension work is a great way to save money and gain a deeper understanding of how your vehicle functions. Take your time, prioritize your safety by using proper support stands, and don’t hesitate to reach out to a professional if you run into a bolt that just won’t budge. Stay safe and enjoy the smooth ride!
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