2013 Ford Taurus Camshaft Position Sensor Location

The 2013 Ford Taurus uses multiple camshaft position sensors located on the top of the engine’s valve covers to monitor timing and performance. Finding these sensors is the first step toward fixing stalling issues, poor fuel economy, or a stubborn check engine light. This guide provides the exact coordinates for every sensor on both the 3.5L V6 and the 2.0L EcoBoost engines.

If your Ford Taurus is stuttering at stoplights or refusing to start on the first crank, you are likely dealing with a sensor synchronization issue. It is a common headache for modern car owners, but it is one you can solve in your own driveway with a few basic tools. Understanding the 2013 ford taurus camshaft position sensor location is essential for a successful DIY repair that saves you hundreds in shop labor.

In this guide, we will walk through the specific locations for Bank 1 and Bank 2 sensors, the tools you need to swap them out, and the safety steps required to protect your engine’s electronics. Whether you are a weekend warrior or a first-time DIYer, these instructions will help you restore your car’s reliability. Let’s get under the hood and pinpoint exactly where these vital components live.

We will cover the differences between the intake and exhaust sensors, how to interpret common error codes, and the best practices for installing new Motorcraft components. By the end of this article, you will have the confidence to handle this repair like a seasoned technician. Your Taurus deserves to run smoothly, and we are here to make sure it does.

Understanding the 2013 ford taurus camshaft position sensor location

The 2013 Ford Taurus typically features the 3.5L Ti-VCT V6 engine, which uses four separate camshaft position (CMP) sensors. These sensors are divided between two “banks” or sides of the engine. Bank 1 is the side of the engine closest to the firewall, while Bank 2 is the side closest to the radiator.

On each bank, you will find two sensors: one for the intake camshaft and one for the exhaust camshaft. The 2013 ford taurus camshaft position sensor location for the intake sensors is usually closer to the center of the “V” shape of the engine. The exhaust sensors are typically located toward the outer edges of the cylinder heads.

If you have the 2.0L EcoBoost four-cylinder engine, the layout is slightly simpler because there is only one cylinder head. You will find the sensors located on the top of the valve cover, near the driver side of the engine bay. Regardless of the engine type, these sensors are mounted vertically or at a slight angle and are held in place by a single 8mm or 10mm bolt.

Locating Bank 1 (Firewall Side)

Bank 1 is often the most difficult to access because it sits tucked back toward the windshield. To see these sensors clearly, you may need to remove the plastic engine appearance cover. Once the cover is off, look at the rear cylinder head; the sensors are located on the passenger side of that rear head.

The intake sensor for Bank 1 is positioned toward the middle of the engine. The exhaust sensor for Bank 1 is located further toward the back, closer to the exhaust manifold area. Because space is tight back there, using a small 1/4-inch drive ratchet is usually the best approach for removal.

Locating Bank 2 (Radiator Side)

Bank 2 is much easier to work on because it faces the front of the car. These sensors are located on the cylinder head closest to the radiator. Look for the electrical connectors sticking up through the valve cover on the driver’s side of the front bank.

Just like Bank 1, there is an intake and an exhaust sensor here. The intake sensor is the one closer to the intake manifold (the large plastic housing on top of the engine). The exhaust sensor is the one closer to the front of the car. This accessibility makes Bank 2 the ideal place to start if you are practicing your diagnostic skills.

Identifying Symptoms of a Failing Camshaft Sensor

Before you start pulling parts, it is important to confirm that the 2013 ford taurus camshaft position sensor location is actually where your problem lies. The most common sign of failure is the illumination of the Check Engine Light (CEL). You will often see codes like P0340, P0344, P0345, or P0349 when these sensors fail.

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Beyond the dashboard lights, you might experience “limp mode,” where the car limits engine power to prevent damage. You may also notice a significant drop in fuel economy because the engine’s computer (PCM) cannot accurately time the fuel injection. If the sensor fails completely while driving, the engine may stall and refuse to restart until the sensor cools down.

Another common symptom is a “hard start” condition. This happens when the engine has to crank for several seconds before it finally fires up. The PCM is searching for a signal from the camshafts to sync with the crankshaft position sensor, and a delay in that signal causes the long cranking time.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) to Watch For

  • P0340: Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1).
  • P0345: Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2).
  • P0349: Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2).
  • P0017: Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor B).

If you see correlation codes like P0017, the issue might not be the sensor itself but rather a stretched timing chain or a failing VVT solenoid. Always test the sensor’s electrical connector for 5-volt reference power before assuming the sensor is dead. A frayed wire or a loose ground can mimic a failed sensor perfectly.

Tools and Safety Gear Needed for the Job

One of the best things about finding the 2013 ford taurus camshaft position sensor location is that the actual replacement requires very few tools. You don’t need a heavy-duty lift or a massive chest of wrenches. Most DIYers will already have these items in a basic mechanic’s tool set.

Safety is the most important part of any automotive project. Ensure the engine is completely cool to the touch before you begin. The sensors are located near components that hold residual heat for a long time, and you don’t want to burn your knuckles while reaching into tight spaces. Also, always wear eye protection to shield yourself from road grime or stray oil.

You will need an 8mm or 10mm socket (depending on the specific bolt Ford used during your car’s production run). A magnetic socket or a small magnet tool is highly recommended. These bolts are small, and dropping one into the depths of the engine bay can turn a 20-minute job into a two-hour search-and-rescue mission.

Required Tool List

  • 1/4-inch Drive Ratchet: Best for tight spaces near the firewall.
  • 6-inch Extension: Helps reach past wires and hoses.
  • 8mm/10mm Sockets: The standard sizes for Ford sensor bolts.
  • Electrical Contact Cleaner: To ensure the plug is free of oil or debris.
  • Dielectric Grease: To protect the new connection from moisture.
  • OBD-II Scanner: To clear the codes after the repair is complete.

Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing the CMP Sensor

Now that you know the 2013 ford taurus camshaft position sensor location and have your tools ready, it is time to perform the swap. Start by popping the hood and securing it with the prop rod. If your Taurus has the plastic engine cover, pull it straight up to release it from the rubber grommets and set it aside.

Locate the specific sensor you need to replace based on your diagnostic codes. Before touching the bolt, press the release tab on the electrical connector and pull it away from the sensor. Inspect the connector for any signs of green corrosion or engine oil that may have wicked up through the sensor body.

Use your ratchet and socket to remove the mounting bolt. Once the bolt is out, gently twist and pull the sensor upward. It is sealed with a rubber O-ring, so it might resist slightly. If it feels stuck, a small wiggle back and forth will usually break the seal and allow it to slide out of the valve cover.

Installing the New Sensor

  1. Lubricate the O-ring: Take a tiny drop of clean engine oil and rub it on the O-ring of the new sensor to prevent tearing during installation.
  2. Seat the Sensor: Press the new sensor into the hole until the mounting tab sits flush against the valve cover.
  3. Hand-Tighten the Bolt: Start the bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading the aluminum threads in the cylinder head.
  4. Snug it Down: Use the ratchet to tighten the bolt until it is snug; do not over-tighten, as these small bolts can snap easily.
  5. Reconnect the Plug: Push the electrical connector back on until you hear a distinct click.
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Once the physical installation is done, put the engine cover back on. Start the car and let it idle for a few minutes. Use your OBD-II scanner to clear the old codes. If the check engine light stays off and the engine idles smoothly, you have successfully completed the repair.

Common Pitfalls and Expert Troubleshooting Tips

Even a simple job can have complications. One common issue when searching for the 2013 ford taurus camshaft position sensor location is confusing the CMP sensors with the VVT solenoids. The solenoids are also located on the valve covers but are typically larger and have a different connector style.

Another mistake is buying “cheap” sensors from unverified online marketplaces. Modern Ford engines are very sensitive to the electrical resistance of their sensors. Using a non-OEM part often results in the check engine light returning within a few days. We always recommend using Motorcraft or high-quality brands like Bosch or NTK.

If you replace the sensor and the code remains, you may need to perform a “crankshaft relearn” procedure. While the Taurus often learns the new sensor automatically through driving, some scan tools have a specific function to recalibrate the timing offset. If the car still runs poorly, check the wiring harness for “chaffing” where it might be rubbing against the metal engine block.

Pro Tip: Check for Oil Leaks

If you find oil inside the electrical connector when you pull it off, the sensor has failed internally. Oil wicking can travel up the wiring harness and eventually reach the engine computer (PCM). If you see oil, clean the connector thoroughly with electrical contact cleaner before plugging in the new sensor to prevent future electrical shorts.

Frequently Asked Questions About 2013 Ford Taurus Camshaft Sensors

How many camshaft sensors does a 2013 Ford Taurus have?

The 3.5L V6 engine has four camshaft position sensors—two for Bank 1 (rear) and two for Bank 2 (front). The 2.0L EcoBoost engine typically has two sensors, one for the intake cam and one for the exhaust cam, both located on the single cylinder head.

Can I drive my Taurus with a bad camshaft sensor?

While the car might run, it is not recommended. A bad sensor can cause random stalling, which is dangerous in traffic. Furthermore, incorrect timing can lead to poor combustion, eventually clogging your catalytic converters and leading to much more expensive repairs.

Do I need to disconnect the battery to change the sensor?

It is always a safety best practice to disconnect the negative battery terminal when working on engine electronics. This prevents any accidental short circuits and forces the PCM to reset its “learned” values, which can help the car adapt to the new sensor faster.

How long does it take to replace a camshaft sensor?

For the front bank (Bank 2), the job usually takes about 15 to 20 minutes. For the rear bank (Bank 1), it may take 30 to 45 minutes due to the limited space and the need to reach behind the engine. It is a very manageable project for a Saturday morning.

Will a bad camshaft sensor cause a “No Start” condition?

Yes. If the sensor responsible for the primary timing signal fails completely, the PCM may not know when to fire the spark plugs or injectors. This results in the engine cranking over normally but never actually catching and running.

Conclusion: Mastering Your Taurus Maintenance

Finding the 2013 ford taurus camshaft position sensor location is the hardest part of this entire repair. Once you have identified whether you need to work on the front or rear bank, the actual nut-and-bolt work is straightforward. Taking the time to do this yourself not only saves money but also gives you a deeper understanding of how your Ford Taurus operates.

Remember to prioritize safety by working on a cool engine and double-checking your electrical connections. Using high-quality parts and cleaning your connectors will ensure that this fix lasts for the long haul. If you encounter persistent codes even after a replacement, don’t hesitate to consult a professional technician to rule out deeper timing chain or PCM issues.

Keeping your engine’s sensors in top shape is the best way to ensure your Taurus remains a reliable daily driver or a capable long-distance cruiser. We hope this guide has empowered you to take control of your vehicle’s health. Stay safe, keep your tools ready, and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done!

Robert Lozano

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