2013 Ford Taurus Fuel Pump Relay Location – Find And Fix Fuel
The fuel pump relay on a 2013 Ford Taurus is located inside the Power Distribution Box under the hood, specifically designated as Relay 71. This critical component acts as the electronic switch that sends high-current power to the fuel pump once the ignition is turned on.
You have probably been there before. You hop into your car, turn the key, and the engine cranks vigorously but never actually fires up. It is a frustrating moment that often points directly to a failure in the fuel delivery system.
If you suspect your car isn’t getting gas, finding the 2013 ford taurus fuel pump relay location is your first step toward a successful DIY repair. This guide will walk you through finding the box, identifying the correct part, and testing the circuit like a professional technician.
We will also explore the common symptoms of a failing relay and look at other components, like the fuel pump driver module, that might be causing your headache. Let’s get your Taurus back on the road safely and efficiently.
Understanding the Role of the Fuel Pump Relay
Before we dive under the hood, it helps to understand what this small plastic cube actually does for your vehicle. The fuel pump requires a significant amount of electrical current to move fuel from the tank to the engine injectors.
Your ignition switch is not designed to handle that much raw power directly. Instead, the switch sends a low-current signal to the fuel pump relay, which then closes a high-current circuit to the pump.
Think of the relay as a gatekeeper. When it fails, the gate stays closed, the pump stays silent, and your engine starves for fuel. Identifying the 2013 ford taurus fuel pump relay location allows you to bypass or replace this gatekeeper to restore flow.
Pinpointing the 2013 ford taurus fuel pump relay location
On the 2013 Ford Taurus, all major engine-related relays and high-voltage fuses are housed in the Power Distribution Box. You do not need to crawl under the dashboard or take apart the trunk to find this specific relay.
Open the hood and look toward the driver’s side of the engine compartment. You will see a large black plastic box situated near the battery and the strut tower. This is the Battery Junction Box, which contains your target.
To access the interior, you must release the plastic tabs on the side of the cover. Once the lid is removed, flip it over. Ford usually prints a diagram on the underside of the lid to help you navigate the sea of fuses and relays.
Finding Relay 71
In the 2013 model year, the fuel pump relay is typically labeled as Relay 71. It is a small, rectangular plug-in component that sits among several other similar relays.
It is important to note that while Relay 71 handles the primary switching, it works in tandem with Fuse 11. Fuse 11 is a 30-amp cartridge fuse that provides the actual “muscle” or power that the relay sends to the pump.
Always check the fuse before blaming the relay. A blown fuse is a visual fix, whereas a bad relay often looks perfectly fine on the outside while being burnt out on the inside.
Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump Relay
How do you know if the 2013 ford taurus fuel pump relay location is the place you should be looking? Relays rarely fail gracefully; they usually work perfectly until they don’t, but there are a few warning signs.
The most common symptom is a “crank, no-start” condition. You hear the starter motor spinning the engine, but there is no combustion because the fuel injectors have nothing to spray.
Another sign is the absence of the fuel pump prime sound. When you turn your Taurus key to the “On” position (without starting), you should hear a faint hum for two seconds coming from the rear of the car. If it is silent, the relay may not be clicking shut.
Intermittent Stalling
Sometimes a relay develops “pitted” internal contacts. This means the connection is weak and can break due to engine vibration or heat buildup while you are driving.
If your Taurus suddenly dies while cruising but starts back up after 10 minutes of cooling down, the relay is a prime suspect. The internal coil or the metal contact arm may be failing under thermal stress.
In some cases, a failing relay can cause the engine to sputter or lose power under load. If the pump isn’t receiving consistent voltage, the fuel pressure will drop, leading to a lean fuel mixture and poor performance.
Step-by-Step Guide to Testing the Relay
Once you have identified the 2013 ford taurus fuel pump relay location, you don’t have to guess if it is bad. There are two main ways to test it: the “Swap Method” and the “Multimeter Method.”
The swap method is the favorite of roadside DIYers. Look at the other relays in the box; you will likely see another relay with the exact same part number, such as the one for the horn or the cooling fan.
Switch the fuel pump relay with the horn relay. If the car starts, you have found your culprit. If the car still doesn’t start but the horn now refuses to honk, you have double-confirmed the failure.
Using a Multimeter for Precision
If you want to be 100% sure, use a digital multimeter. Set the meter to Ohms (Resistance) and check the continuity between the load pins of the relay while applying 12V to the coil pins.
- Locate pins 85 and 86 on the relay (the coil circuit).
- Apply 12 volts from the battery across these two pins; you should hear a distinct “click.”
- While the relay is energized, check for zero resistance between pins 30 and 87.
- If the relay clicks but shows “OL” (Open Loop) or high resistance, the internal contacts are fried.
This level of testing ensures you aren’t throwing money at parts you don’t need. It also helps you rule out the relay so you can move on to checking the fuel pump driver module or the pump itself.
The Role of the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM)
In the 2013 Ford Taurus, the relay is only one half of the equation. Modern Fords use a Fuel Pump Driver Module to vary the speed of the pump based on engine demand.
Even if the relay is working perfectly at the 2013 ford taurus fuel pump relay location, the FPDM could be preventing the pump from running. This module receives the power from the relay and “pulses” it to the pump.
The FPDM is usually located in the trunk area, often behind the carpeting on the driver’s side or near the rear seat. These modules are known to corrode or suffer from internal circuit failure, especially in humid climates.
If you have power at the relay and the fuse is good, but the pump still won’t prime, you should inspect the FPDM connector for green corrosion or burnt pins. Replacing a module is often as simple as unplugging the old one and bolting in a new unit.
Tools Required for the Job
You do not need a massive rolling toolbox to handle this repair. Most of the work involves simple hand tools and basic diagnostic equipment that every DIYer should own.
- Plastic Fuse Puller: Usually found inside the fuse box cover, this helps you remove the relay without cracking the casing.
- Digital Multimeter: Essential for checking voltage at the fuse box and testing relay continuity.
- Flashlight: The engine bay can be dark, and the numbers on the fuse box are very small.
- Replacement Relay: Always use a high-quality OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) part or a reputable brand like Motorcraft to ensure longevity.
Having these tools ready will turn a potential two-hour struggle into a twenty-minute fix. If you are heading out on a long road trip or an off-road excursion, carrying a spare relay in your glove box is a pro move.
Safety Precautions When Working on Fuel Systems
Safety is paramount when dealing with the electrical side of the fuel system. Even though you aren’t opening gas lines, you are working near the battery and handling components that control highly flammable liquids.
Always ensure the ignition is in the Off position before pulling or inserting a relay. Pulling a relay while the circuit is live can cause a small spark, which can damage the sensitive pins in the fuse box or the PCM (Powertrain Control Module).
If you decide to move beyond the relay and check fuel pressure at the rail, remember that the system is under high pressure. Use a dedicated fuel pressure gauge with a bleed-off valve to avoid spraying gasoline on a hot engine.
If you smell raw gasoline while working near the 2013 ford taurus fuel pump relay location, stop immediately. A fuel leak near an electrical junction box is a major fire hazard. Inspect all lines for leaks before continuing your electrical diagnostics.
Frequently Asked Questions About 2013 ford taurus fuel pump relay location
Can a bad fuel pump relay cause a check engine light?
Yes, it can. While the relay itself isn’t always monitored, a failure will often trigger codes like P0230 (Fuel Pump Primary Circuit) or P0087 (Fuel Rail Pressure Too Low). If your Taurus has a “No Start” and a check engine light, scanning for codes is a great way to confirm the relay is the issue.
Is the relay the same for the EcoBoost and the standard V6?
Generally, yes. The 2013 ford taurus fuel pump relay location remains in the engine compartment Power Distribution Box regardless of whether you have the 3.5L Ti-VCT or the 3.5L EcoBoost engine. However, the EcoBoost models also have a high-pressure mechanical pump on the engine that relies on the electric pump in the tank to feed it.
What should I do if the relay is good but there is no power at the box?
If the relay is functional but isn’t receiving power, the issue might be further upstream. Check the PCM relay and the main battery cables. In rare cases, the wiring harness underneath the fuse box can rub against the frame and short out, cutting power to the fuel circuit.
How much does it cost to replace the fuel pump relay?
A new relay is one of the cheapest fixes for a Ford Taurus. You can typically find a replacement at an auto parts store for between $10 and $20. If you take the car to a dealership, they may charge a diagnostic fee of $100 or more, making this a very high-value DIY project.
Final Thoughts on Fuel System Maintenance
Taking the time to learn the 2013 ford taurus fuel pump relay location is an empowering step for any car owner. It transforms a scary “car won’t start” scenario into a logical troubleshooting process that you can handle in your own driveway.
Remember to always start with the simplest solution. Check your fuses, swap the relay with a known good one, and listen for that tell-tale hum of the fuel pump. Most of the time, these small electrical components are the weak link in an otherwise robust Ford engine.
By keeping a few spare fuses and a multimeter in your trunk, you are prepared for the unexpected. Whether you are commuting to work or exploring backroads, a little bit of mechanical knowledge goes a long way in keeping you safe and mobile.
Stay safe, keep your tools ready, and enjoy the peace of mind that comes with knowing your Taurus inside and out!
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