2014 Ford Explorer Rack And Pinion Replacement

ByRobert Lozano

Replacing the electronic power steering rack on a 2014 Ford Explorer is a complex but manageable project that restores steering precision and eliminates dangerous “stiffness.” This guide provides a technical walkthrough to help DIY mechanics navigate the unique challenges of Ford’s Electronic Power Assist Steering (EPAS) system.

Dealing with a stiff, notched, or completely unresponsive steering wheel in your Explorer is a stressful experience. You might feel like you are fighting the vehicle just to make a simple turn into your driveway.

Performing a 2014 ford explorer rack and pinion replacement is a significant undertaking, but it can save you thousands of dollars in professional labor costs. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from safety prep to the final software programming requirements.

We will cover the essential tools, the step-by-step mechanical removal, and the critical “pro-tips” that prevent common mistakes like breaking your clock spring. By the end of this article, you will have the knowledge needed to restore your Ford’s handling and safety.

Understanding the 2014 Ford Explorer Rack and Pinion Replacement Challenge

The 2014 Ford Explorer utilizes an Electronic Power Assist Steering (EPAS) system rather than a traditional hydraulic setup. This means there are no hoses, no power steering fluid, and no hydraulic pump to worry about during the swap.

Instead, the rack and pinion unit contains an internal electric motor and a dedicated control module. While this simplifies the “mess” factor, it increases the electrical complexity of the repair.

You are not just swapping a mechanical part; you are replacing a computer-controlled actuator. This requires careful handling of high-current electrical connectors and a plan for software recalibration once the new unit is bolted in.

Why These Units Fail

Most failures in these racks stem from internal sensor errors or moisture intrusion into the motor housing. If the internal belt snaps or the torque sensor fails, the vehicle usually defaults to manual steering, which is incredibly heavy.

You may also experience a “shudder” in the steering wheel or hear a grinding noise when turning. In many cases, the dashboard will display a “Steering Assist Fault Service Required” message along with a chime.

Signs Your Steering Rack Needs Attention

Before committing to a 2014 ford explorer rack and pinion replacement, it is vital to confirm the rack is actually the problem. Diagnosing steering issues early can prevent you from being stranded on the side of the road.

One of the most common symptoms is a “sticky” feeling where the wheel does not want to return to the center after a turn. This often points to a mechanical bind within the rack or a failing internal electric motor.

Another red flag is an audible clunking or popping sound when driving over small bumps or while turning the wheel at low speeds. While this can sometimes be tie rod ends or ball joints, a worn internal rack gear is a frequent culprit.

Finally, check for any diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) using an OBD-II scanner. Codes like U3000 or P0633 often indicate that the Power Steering Control Module (PSCM) has detected an internal hardware failure that requires replacement.

Essential Tools and Safety Gear for the Job

This job requires more than just a basic socket set. Because you will be working under the vehicle and lowering the subframe, safety and the right leverage are your best friends.

  • High-quality jack and heavy-duty jack stands: Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • Metric socket set: Specifically 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, and 21mm deep and shallow sockets.
  • Torque wrench: Crucial for ensuring subframe and steering bolts are tightened to factory specifications.
  • Tie rod end puller: Or a heavy hammer to shock the knuckle and release the outer tie rods.
  • Scan tool with bidirectional capability: Required to perform the “Programmable Module Installation” (PMI) or to clear codes.
  • Steering wheel holder: A specialized tool or a simple bungee cord to keep the wheel from spinning.
See also 2008 Ford Escape Transmission Shifting Problems

Safety is paramount when dealing with the EPAS system. Always disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the electrical connectors on the rack to prevent short circuits or accidental airbag deployment.

Step-by-Step 2014 Ford Explorer Rack and Pinion Replacement Guide

Before starting your 2014 ford explorer rack and pinion replacement, gather all necessary parts and ensure you have a clear, level workspace. This job typically takes a seasoned DIYer about 4 to 6 hours to complete.

Step 1: Secure the Vehicle and Steering Wheel

Loosen the front lug nuts and jack up the front of the vehicle. Place the jack stands under the frame rails and remove the front wheels to gain access to the suspension components.

Inside the cabin, ensure the steering wheel is perfectly straight. Use a steering wheel holder or a bungee cord to lock it in place; if the wheel spins freely while the rack is disconnected, you will snap the clock spring, leading to an expensive secondary repair.

Step 2: Disconnect the Steering Column

Locate the pinch bolt where the steering shaft meets the input shaft of the rack and pinion. This is usually found near the driver-side floorboard or just outside the firewall.

Remove the 13mm pinch bolt completely. Slide the intermediate shaft upward and off the rack’s input splines; you may need a pry bar to gently nudge it loose if there is corrosion.

Step 3: Disconnect Tie Rods and Stabilizer Links

Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the outer tie rod ends. Use your puller or the “hammer method” to pop the tie rods out of the steering knuckles on both sides.

You will also need to disconnect the sway bar end links (stabilizer links) to allow the subframe to drop sufficiently. Use an 18mm wrench and a hex key to prevent the stud from spinning while you loosen the nut.

Step 4: Lowering the Subframe

The steering rack on a 2014 Explorer is tucked tightly between the subframe and the body. To get it out, you must lower the rear of the subframe about 3 to 4 inches.

Support the subframe with a floor jack. Remove the large 18mm or 21mm bolts securing the rear of the subframe to the chassis. Slowly lower the jack until you have enough clearance to access the rack mounting bolts.

Step 5: Removing the Rack and Pinion

Unplug the two large electrical connectors from the rack. These have locking tabs that can be stubborn, so use a small flathead screwdriver to gently release the plastic clips.

Remove the two main mounting bolts that hold the rack to the subframe. These are typically long bolts that go through the entire housing. Carefully maneuver the old rack out through the driver-side wheel well.

Step 6: Installing the New Unit

Slide the new rack into position, being careful not to damage the rubber boots on the inner tie rods. Line up the mounting holes and start the bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.

Tighten the mounting bolts to the recommended torque spec (usually around 85-100 lb-ft, but check your specific service manual). Reconnect the electrical plugs until you hear a distinct click.

See also 2002 Ford F150 Front Wheel Bearing Replacement 2Wd

Programming the New Steering Rack

Unlike older cars, a 2014 ford explorer rack and pinion replacement is not finished once the bolts are tight. The new Power Steering Control Module (PSCM) needs to “talk” to the rest of the car.

If you install a brand-new OEM rack, it may come “blank.” You will need a tool like FORScan or a high-end Autel/Snap-On scanner to perform the Programmable Module Installation (PMI) process.

This process copies the configuration data from your old rack (if it still communicates) or downloads it from Ford’s servers based on your VIN. Without this step, you may have no power assist or a permanent traction control light on the dash.

Common Mistakes to Avoid During Installation

One of the biggest blunders is failing to center the new rack before connecting the steering shaft. If the rack is turned all the way to one side and your steering wheel is centered, your turning radius will be lopsided.

Always verify that the new rack is in its “dead center” position. You can do this by counting the total turns from lock-to-lock and then turning it back exactly half that amount.

Another mistake is ignoring the condition of the outer tie rod ends. Since you already have them off, it is often wise to install new ones to ensure your entire steering system is refreshed and tight.

Finally, never skip the professional alignment. Even if you measure your tie rod threads perfectly, the geometry will be slightly off. A professional alignment prevents premature tire wear and ensures the Steering Angle Sensor is calibrated correctly.

Frequently Asked Questions About 2014 Ford Explorer Rack and Pinion Replacement

How much does a 2014 ford explorer rack and pinion replacement cost?

If you do it yourself, the part usually costs between $600 and $1,200 depending on if it is new or remanufactured. A dealership will often charge between $2,000 and $3,500 for parts and labor.

Can I drive my Explorer if the power steering rack fails?

Technically, the car will still steer, but it will be extremely difficult to turn, especially at low speeds. This is a major safety hazard in emergency maneuvers, so it is best to avoid driving until it is repaired.

Do I need to bleed the system after replacement?

No. Because the 2014 Explorer uses an electric rack, there is no fluid in the system. There is nothing to bleed, which makes the cleanup much easier than on older hydraulic systems.

Will a used rack work for this replacement?

Yes, but it must be from a compatible year and model. You will still likely need to perform a software “reset” or “relearn” using a scan tool so the car recognizes the used module.

Conclusion: Success Behind the Wheel

Completing a 2014 ford explorer rack and pinion replacement is no small feat. It requires patience, the right tools, and a methodical approach to both mechanical and electronic components.

By following these steps, you have successfully navigated the complexities of the EPAS system and saved a significant amount of money. Your Explorer should now handle with the smoothness and precision it had the day it left the factory.

Remember to take your vehicle for a professional alignment immediately to protect your tires and ensure the steering sensors are perfectly synced. Stay safe, keep your tools organized, and enjoy the renewed confidence of a job well done!

Robert Lozano
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