Ford Dtc P1703 00 – Fixing The Brake Switch Out Of Range Error
The ford dtc p1703 00 code indicates that the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) did not see a change in the brake switch state during a diagnostic self-test. This typically means the brake pedal wasn’t pressed during the scan, or there is a physical fault in the brake light switch circuit, fuses, or wiring.
Dealing with a “Check Engine” light or a sudden loss of cruise control can be a major headache for any vehicle owner. If you have hooked up your scanner and pulled the ford dtc p1703 00, you are likely looking at a communication breakdown between your brake pedal and the engine computer.
You might worry that a transmission or engine failure is looming, but the reality is often much simpler and cheaper to fix. This guide will walk you through exactly what this code means, why it triggered, and how you can resolve it in your own garage.
We will cover everything from basic fuse checks to testing the brake pedal position switch with a multimeter. By the end of this article, you will have the confidence to diagnose this fault and get your Ford back on the road or trail safely.
Understanding the ford dtc p1703 00 Error Code
In the world of Ford diagnostics, the P1703 code is a bit unique because it is often a test-induced code. Unlike a misfire code that pops up while you are driving down the highway, this one frequently appears during a Key On Engine Off (KOEO) or Key On Engine Running (KOER) self-test.
The PCM expects to see the brake switch cycle from “Off” to “On” and back to “Off” when the technician (or you) performs a diagnostic routine. If the computer doesn’t detect that voltage change within a specific window, it logs the ford dtc p1703 00 to let you know the circuit is “Out of Self-Test Range.”
The “00” suffix is a failure type byte that essentially means “no sub-type information is available.” It tells us the fault is general and requires a standard circuit inspection. This code is extremely common on Ford F-150s, Rangers, Explorers, and Super Duty trucks from the late 90s through the mid-2010s.
The Role of the Brake Pedal Position (BPP) Switch
The Brake Pedal Position switch, also known as the Brake On/Off (BOO) switch, is the primary sensor involved here. It serves multiple masters: it turns on your brake lights, tells the cruise control to disengage, and informs the shift interlock that it is safe to move out of Park.
When this switch fails or the wiring is compromised, the PCM loses a vital safety input. This is why the computer is so sensitive to the switch’s performance during its internal health checks.
Why the Self-Test Fails
Sometimes, the code is simply the result of “operator error.” If you run a self-test with an OBD-II scanner and forget to pump the brake pedal when prompted, the PCM will automatically trigger this code. It assumes the switch is broken because it didn’t see the signal it was looking for.
Common Symptoms of the P1703 Fault
While the code itself might only show up during a scan, there are several “real-world” symptoms you might notice while driving. These symptoms can range from minor annoyances to genuine safety concerns, especially if you are towing a heavy trailer or driving off-road.
One of the most frequent complaints is the total loss of cruise control functionality. Because the PCM cannot verify the state of the brake pedal, it disables cruise control as a safety precaution to ensure the vehicle can always be slowed down manually.
You may also find that your vehicle is stuck in Park. The shift interlock solenoid requires a “Brake On” signal to release the shifter; without that signal, you aren’t going anywhere without using the manual override slot.
- Brake lights staying on constantly or not illuminating at all.
- The ABS or Traction Control warning lights appearing on the dash.
- Third brake light (High Mount Stop Lamp) flickering or burnt out.
- Erratic shifting patterns in some older automatic transmissions.
If you are an off-roader, this code can interfere with Hill Descent Control or Hill Start Assist. These systems rely heavily on accurate brake switch data to modulate pressure and prevent the vehicle from rolling unexpectedly.
Diagnosing the ford dtc p1703 00 Code
Before you go out and buy a new switch, we need to perform a systematic diagnosis. Jumping to conclusions often leads to “parts cannon” repairs where you replace perfectly good components while the actual problem remains.
Start by clearing the code with your scan tool and performing the self-test again. This time, make sure you firmly depress and release the brake pedal when the scanner tells you to. If the code does not return, you have just saved yourself an afternoon of work.
If the code returns immediately, we need to look at the hardware. Grab a digital multimeter and a flashlight, as we are going to be spending some time under the dashboard near the steering column.
Step 1: Check the Fuses and Bulbs
It sounds overly simple, but a blown fuse is a very common cause for the ford dtc p1703 00. Check your owner’s manual for the “Stop Lamp” or “Brake Switch” fuse location. Use a test light or multimeter to ensure power is flowing through the fuse.
Interestingly, a burnt-out High Mount Stop Lamp (HMSL)—the third brake light—can sometimes cause resistance issues in the circuit that trigger this code. Inspect all your brake light bulbs and replace any that are dark or have broken filaments.
Step 2: Inspect the Brake Switch Wiring
The brake switch is located right at the top of the brake pedal arm. Because the pedal moves every time you drive, the wiring harness attached to the switch is constantly flexing. Over time, this can lead to frayed wires or loose pins in the connector.
Unplug the connector and look for any signs of green corrosion or melted plastic. Tug gently on the wires to ensure they are still securely crimped into the metal terminals. If the wiring looks “stretched” when the pedal is depressed, you may need to reroute it to provide more slack.
Step 3: Test Voltage at the Switch
Set your multimeter to DC Volts. With the ignition on, check for 12 volts on the power feed wire at the switch connector. If you have power, back-probe the signal wire (the one that goes to the PCM/Brake lights).
With the pedal up, you should see 0 volts. When you press the pedal down, you should see a clean jump to 12 volts. If the voltage is low (e.g., 5 or 6 volts) or stays at zero, the internal contacts of the switch are likely burnt or pitted.
Common Causes of the P1703 Fault
While we have touched on the switch itself, there are a few “niche” causes that often trip up DIY mechanics. Understanding these can help you solve the problem if a basic switch replacement doesn’t work.
A misadjusted brake pedal can prevent the switch from fully cycling. If you have recently performed work on the master cylinder or the pedal assembly, the switch might be “pre-loaded,” meaning the PCM thinks the brakes are always slightly applied.
On some Ford models, the Stop Lamp Switch is a dual-circuit design. One side controls the lights, while the other sends a signal to the PCM and Cruise Control module. It is possible for your brake lights to work perfectly while the PCM circuit inside the switch is totally dead.
Another culprit is a faulty trailer brake controller. If you have an aftermarket controller spliced into the brake switch wiring, a short-circuit inside the controller can “back-feed” voltage into the PCM signal wire, causing the ford dtc p1703 00 to trigger.
- Corroded trailer hitch wiring plugs.
- Faulty Body Control Module (BCM) in newer models.
- Aftermarket LED brake light bulbs without proper load resistors.
- Loose ground wires behind the kick panels or near the tail lights.
How to Replace a Ford Brake Light Switch
If your testing confirms the switch is dead, replacing it is a straightforward DIY task. Most Ford brake switches use a “twist-lock” or a “pin-and-clip” design. You won’t need many tools—usually just a pair of pliers and a small screwdriver.
First, move your seat all the way back to give yourself room to work. Locate the switch at the top of the brake pedal. If it is the twist-lock style, simply rotate the switch housing 45 degrees counter-clockwise and pull it out of the bracket.
For the pin-and-clip style (common on F-150s), you will need to remove a small metal cotter pin or plastic clip that holds the switch to the pedal stud. Slide the switch off the stud, then unplug the electrical connector.
When installing the new switch, do not press the brake pedal down yet. Most new switches are “self-adjusting.” You click them into place, and the first time you pull the pedal up or push it down, the switch sets its own depth. If you manually click the plunger before installation, you might ruin the switch.
Once the new part is in, clear the ford dtc p1703 00 with your scanner. Take the vehicle for a test drive and verify that the cruise control works and the shift interlock operates smoothly. If the code stays away, you’ve successfully completed the repair!
Safety Considerations for DIYers
Working on the brake system always carries a level of risk. Even though the brake switch is an electrical component, it is fundamentally tied to your vehicle’s ability to signal intent to other drivers. Never drive a vehicle on public roads if your brake lights are not functioning.
If you find that your wiring harness is melted or severely damaged, do not just wrap it in electrical tape. This could lead to a short circuit that might damage the expensive Powertrain Control Module. In these cases, it is best to buy a pigtail repair kit and solder the new wires correctly.
If you are uncomfortable working under the dash or dealing with electrical diagnostics, there is no shame in taking the vehicle to a certified technician. A professional can use a high-end oscilloscope to see if the switch signal is “noisy,” which is something a standard multimeter might miss.
Frequently Asked Questions About ford dtc p1703 00
Can I drive my car with a P1703 code?
Technically, the car will run, but it is not recommended. Your brake lights may not work, which is a major safety hazard and could get you pulled over. Additionally, your cruise control will likely be disabled.
Will a bad third brake light cause this code?
Yes, on many Ford vehicles, the PCM monitors the resistance of the entire stop lamp circuit. If the third brake light bulb is blown or has a bad ground, it can trigger the ford dtc p1703 00 even if the main brake lights seem fine.
Do I need to program the new switch?
No, the brake pedal position switch on most Fords is a “dumb” analog switch. It does not require any software programming or “relearning” with a scan tool. It is a simple plug-and-play mechanical installation.
Why does the code come back after I replaced the switch?
If the code returns, you likely have a wiring issue or a blown fuse. Check the connector pins for tightness and ensure there are no shorts to ground in the wiring harness between the pedal and the PCM.
Does this code affect my transmission?
It can. The PCM uses the brake signal to manage torque converter clutch (TCC) release. If the PCM doesn’t know you are braking, the transmission might feel like it is “stumbling” or “chugging” as you come to a stop because the clutch isn’t disengaging properly.
Final Thoughts and Key Takeaways
The ford dtc p1703 00 might seem intimidating at first, but it is usually just a sign of a tired brake switch or a simple procedural error during a diagnostic scan. By following a logical path—checking fuses, inspecting bulbs, and testing the switch—you can save hundreds of dollars in shop labor.
Always remember to perform the “brake pedal pump” during your scan tool’s self-test before you start tearing things apart. If the switch does need replacing, choose a high-quality Motorcraft or equivalent part to ensure the internal resistance matches what the PCM expects.
Keep your wiring clean, your bulbs bright, and your connections tight. Taking care of these small electrical details ensures that your Ford stays reliable, whether you are commuting to work or exploring a remote trail. Stay safe, keep your eyes on the road, and happy wrenching!
- Smallest Chevrolet Car – Maximizing Utility And Efficiency - September 28, 2026
- Chevrolet Small Car Models – A Practical Owner’S Guide To Maintenance - September 28, 2026
- Chevrolet Hhr Miles Per Gallon – Real-World Efficiency And Maintenance - September 28, 2026