Oil For 2013 Ford Explorer – Maximizing Engine Longevity And Fuel
Selecting the correct engine lubricant is the most important maintenance task for keeping your SUV on the road. This guide provides the exact viscosity ratings, fluid capacities, and step-by-step procedures required to maintain peak performance for all 2013 engine variants. Whether you drive the fuel-efficient EcoBoost or the powerful V6, using the right specifications ensures your Ford remains reliable for years to come.
Finding the right oil for 2013 ford explorer can feel overwhelming because Ford offered three distinct engine options that year, each with unique requirements. If you use the wrong viscosity or a low-quality filter, you risk damaging sensitive turbochargers or internal timing components. This article serves as your professional-grade roadmap to choosing the best products and executing a flawless oil change in your own driveway.
We will break down the differences between synthetic and conventional blends while highlighting the specific Ford engineering standards your fluid must meet. You will also learn the “pro” secrets for resetting your oil life monitor and identifying early warning signs of engine wear. By the end of this guide, you will have the confidence to manage your vehicle’s lubrication system like a seasoned master technician.
Understanding the Specifications of oil for 2013 ford explorer
The 2013 Ford Explorer was a pivotal year for the nameplate, featuring the 2.0L EcoBoost, the 3.5L Ti-VCT V6, and the high-output 3.5L EcoBoost V6 in the Sport trim. Each of these engines has a specific viscosity requirement that dictates how the fluid flows at different temperatures. Using the wrong weight can lead to poor lubrication during cold starts or thinning out under heavy towing loads.
For the naturally aspirated 3.5L V6, Ford recommends 5W-20 motor oil. This thinner weight is designed to reduce internal friction and improve fuel economy in non-turbocharged applications. However, if you own either of the EcoBoost (turbocharged) engines, you must use 5W-30. The higher viscosity at operating temperature provides a thicker protective film for the turbocharger bearings, which spin at incredibly high speeds and generate intense heat.
Beyond the weight, you must ensure the fluid meets the Ford WSS-M2C945-A (for 5W-20) or WSS-M2C946-A (for 5W-30) standards. These specifications guarantee the oil contains the necessary additives to prevent sludge buildup and protect against low-speed pre-ignition. Always check the back of the bottle for these codes to ensure you are buying a product that matches the original factory requirements.
The Importance of API Certification
When shopping for oil for 2013 ford explorer, look for the “Starburst” symbol from the American Petroleum Institute (API). This symbol indicates the oil meets the latest industry standards for wear protection and deposit control. For a vehicle of this age, using an API SP or SN Plus rated oil is ideal as these are backward compatible and offer superior protection compared to older formulas.
High-quality additives in these certified oils help maintain the health of your variable valve timing (VVT) solenoids. These solenoids rely on clean, pressurized oil to adjust engine timing on the fly. If the oil is too thick or contains debris, these solenoids can clog, leading to a “Check Engine” light and a noticeable loss in power and fuel efficiency.
Choosing Between Full Synthetic and Synthetic Blend
Ford originally filled these vehicles with a synthetic blend from the factory, which is a mixture of conventional and synthetic base oils. While synthetic blends are cost-effective and meet the minimum requirements, many enthusiasts and high-mileage drivers prefer moving to a full synthetic option. Full synthetic oils offer better stability in extreme temperatures, which is a major benefit for the 2013 Explorer.
If you live in a region with freezing winters, full synthetic oil flows much faster during a cold start than a blend. This prevents “dry starts,” where metal components rub together before the oil pump can circulate fluid. Conversely, in the heat of summer or while towing a trailer, synthetic oil resists breaking down into sludge, keeping the internal passages of your engine clean.
For those with over 75,000 miles, a high-mileage synthetic is often the best choice. These formulations include seal conditioners that help swell aging gaskets and O-rings, potentially stopping or slowing minor oil leaks. This is particularly useful for the 3.5L V6 engines, which can sometimes develop small leaks around the valve covers or oil pan as they age.
Environmental and Performance Factors
Your driving habits should influence your choice of oil for 2013 ford explorer. If your daily commute involves short trips of less than 10 miles, your engine rarely reaches full operating temperature. This allows moisture and unburnt fuel to accumulate in the crankcase, which degrades the oil faster. In this scenario, the superior cleaning agents in full synthetic oil are worth the extra investment.
Off-roaders and those who use their Explorer for camping trips in the mountains should also lean toward synthetics. The increased strain on the cooling system and engine during steep climbs generates extra heat. A high-quality synthetic fluid can withstand these temperatures without oxidizing, ensuring that your engine remains protected even when you are pushing it to the limit.
Oil Capacity and Filter Requirements by Engine Type
Before you crawl under the vehicle, you need to have the right amount of fluid and the correct filter on hand. The 3.5L Ti-VCT V6 engine typically requires 6.0 quarts of oil, while the 2.0L EcoBoost requires approximately 5.7 quarts. The 3.5L EcoBoost found in the Sport trim also takes 6.0 quarts. Always purchase a 5-quart jug and two individual quarts to ensure you have enough for a complete fill and a little extra for top-offs.
The oil filter is just as important as the fluid itself. For the 3.5L engines, the Motorcraft FL-500S is the factory-recommended filter. It features a silicone anti-drainback valve that keeps oil in the upper part of the engine when it is turned off. This is a critical feature for preventing engine noise and wear during the first few seconds of operation the next morning.
If you have the 2.0L EcoBoost, you will likely need the Motorcraft FL-910S filter. While many aftermarket brands like Mobil 1, Bosch, or WIX offer compatible filters, staying with the Motorcraft brand ensures the bypass valve pressure is exactly what Ford engineers intended. A filter with a bypass valve that opens too easily can allow unfiltered oil to circulate through your engine.
Essential Tools for the Job
- Socket Set: You will need a 13mm or 15mm socket for the drain plug, depending on the specific engine and previous service history.
- Oil Filter Wrench: A cap-style wrench or a universal “spider” wrench helps remove stubborn filters in tight spaces.
- Drain Pan: Ensure it has at least a 7-quart capacity to avoid messy overflows.
- Funnel: A long-neck funnel prevents spills on the hot exhaust manifold or alternator.
- Torque Wrench: To ensure the drain plug is tightened to the factory spec of 20 lb-ft.
Step-by-Step DIY Oil Change Guide for the Explorer
Performing your own maintenance is a great way to bond with your vehicle and ensure the job is done right. Start by running the engine for about five minutes to warm the oil; warm oil flows more freely and carries away more contaminants than cold oil. Park the vehicle on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and use jack stands or heavy-duty ramps for safety. Never work under a car supported only by a floor jack. Locate the oil drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. Place your drain pan underneath and carefully loosen the plug. As the plug reaches the end of the threads, pull it away quickly to avoid getting hot oil on your hands. Let the oil drain until it slows to a very thin drip. While it drains, inspect the magnetic tip of the drain plug for any large metal shavings, which could indicate internal engine trouble.
Next, move the drain pan under the oil filter. On the 3.5L V6, the filter is located on the front of the engine, making it relatively easy to access. On the 2.0L EcoBoost, it may be tucked away further. Use your filter wrench to loosen the old filter. Before installing the new filter, dip your finger in clean oil and lubricate the rubber gasket. This ensures a proper seal and makes the filter easier to remove during your next service.
- Install the new filter by hand until the gasket touches the base, then turn it an additional 3/4 turn. Do not over-tighten with a wrench.
- Reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer if yours is flattened or damaged.
- Fill the engine with the required amount of oil for 2013 ford explorer using a clean funnel.
- Start the engine and let it run for a minute while checking for leaks under the vehicle.
- Turn off the engine, wait three minutes for the oil to settle, and check the dipstick level.
Resetting the Oil Life Monitor
Once the physical work is done, you must tell the car’s computer that the service is complete. On the 2013 Explorer, this is done through the steering wheel buttons and the information display on the dashboard. Navigate to the “Settings” menu, then “Vehicle,” and finally “Oil Life Reset.” Hold the “OK” button until the display shows “Reset to 100%.” This ensures the vehicle accurately tracks your next service interval based on your driving conditions.
Common Problems and Maintenance Indicators
Even with the best oil for 2013 ford explorer, things can occasionally go wrong. One common issue with the 3.5L V6 (non-EcoBoost) is the internal water pump. Because the water pump is driven by the timing chain and sits behind the front cover, a leak can dump coolant directly into the oil pan. If you notice your oil looks like “chocolate milk” or the level is rising on the dipstick, stop driving immediately and consult a professional.
Another thing to watch for is blue smoke from the tailpipe, especially on the EcoBoost models. This often indicates that oil is leaking past the turbocharger seals or the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system is clogged. Replacing the PCV valve is a cheap and easy DIY task that can prevent excessive oil consumption and keep your intake valves cleaner over time.
Listen for “ticking” sounds during a cold start. If the sound disappears after the engine warms up, it may be a sign that your oil is too thick or the filter’s anti-drainback valve is failing. If the ticking persists, it could be a sign of a worn cam phaser or lifter. Regular oil changes every 5,000 to 7,500 miles are the best defense against these expensive mechanical failures.
Monitoring Oil Consumption
It is normal for older engines to consume a small amount of oil between changes. However, if you find yourself adding more than a quart every 1,500 miles, you should investigate further. Check for external leaks around the oil pressure sender and the oil cooler adapter. These are common “hot spots” for leaks on the Ford 3.5L engine family that are often mistaken for more serious issues.
Frequently Asked Questions About oil for 2013 ford explorer
What happens if I use 5W-30 in my 3.5L non-turbo engine?
While Ford specifies 5W-20 for the naturally aspirated 3.5L V6, using 5W-30 will not cause immediate engine failure. However, you might notice a slight decrease in fuel economy. In very cold climates, the 5W-30 might be slightly slower to circulate on startup. It is always best to stick to the manufacturer’s recommendation unless you are in a high-heat, heavy-towing environment where a slightly thicker oil might be preferred by some mechanics.
How often should I change the oil for 2013 ford explorer?
Ford’s Intelligent Oil-Life Monitor (IOLM) can technically go up to 10,000 miles under ideal conditions. However, most experienced mechanics recommend a 5,000 to 7,500-mile interval. If you frequently tow, drive in dusty off-road conditions, or idle for long periods, you should stick to the “Severe Service” schedule of 5,000 miles to ensure the oil for 2013 ford explorer remains effective.
Can I switch back to conventional oil after using synthetic?
Yes, the myth that you cannot switch back is outdated. Modern seals are compatible with both types of oil. However, once you have experienced the protection and performance benefits of synthetic oil, there is rarely a reason to go back to conventional fluid, especially given the relatively small price difference during a DIY change.
Does the 2013 Explorer have an oil pressure gauge?
Most 2013 Explorer models have a “dummy gauge” or a warning light rather than a true real-time pressure readout. If the oil light comes on while you are driving, it means the pressure has dropped dangerously low (usually below 5-7 PSI). Pull over immediately and shut off the engine to prevent total mechanical failure.
Summary and Final Maintenance Tips
Maintaining the oil for 2013 ford explorer is a straightforward task that yields massive rewards in terms of vehicle longevity. By choosing a high-quality 5W-20 or 5W-30 fluid that meets Ford’s WSS standards and pairing it with a genuine Motorcraft filter, you are providing your engine with the best possible defense against wear. Remember to check your oil level at least once a month, as catching a low-fluid condition early can save you thousands of dollars in repairs.
If you are new to DIY maintenance, take your time and double-check your work. Ensure the old oil filter gasket didn’t get stuck to the engine block (a “double gasket” will cause a massive leak) and always use a torque wrench on the drain plug. These small details are what separate a professional job from a backyard blunder. Your Explorer is a capable machine, and with the right care, it will continue to serve you on your daily commutes and weekend adventures alike.
Stay proactive with your maintenance, keep your tools clean, and never ignore a new sound or smell from under the hood. Taking care of your Ford is not just about the oil; it’s about the peace of mind that comes with knowing your vehicle is safe and reliable. Stay safe and stay comfortable on the road!
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