Rear Shocks 2013 Ford Fusion – Restore Your Ride Quality And Control
Replacing the rear shocks on a 2013 Ford Fusion is a straightforward maintenance task that can significantly improve your vehicle’s handling, braking distance, and overall comfort. This guide provides a detailed walkthrough for DIY mechanics, covering the necessary tools, safety precautions, and step-by-step instructions to ensure a professional-grade result.
If you have noticed your car bouncing excessively over speed bumps or felt the back end “fishtail” on the highway, it is likely time for a suspension refresh. Maintaining the rear shocks 2013 ford fusion owners rely on ensures that the tires stay in constant contact with the pavement, keeping you safe in all driving conditions.
I have spent years under various chassis, and the Ford CD4 platform used in the 2013 Fusion is generally very user-friendly for home repairs. You do not need a lift or a professional shop to get this done, but you do need the right approach and a few specific sockets. Let’s dive into how you can reclaim that “new car” feel without spending a fortune at the dealership.
In this guide, we will cover the diagnostic signs of failure, the specific tools you should have on your workbench, and the nuances of the installation process. By the time you finish reading, you will have the confidence to tackle this project in your own driveway over a single afternoon.
Everything You Need to Know About rear shocks 2013 ford fusion
The 2013 model year marked a significant redesign for the Ford Fusion, introducing a more sophisticated multi-link rear suspension system. Unlike older designs that used a simple shock and spring setup, this generation utilizes a shock absorber that is separate from the coil spring, making replacement much easier for the average DIYer.
The primary role of these shocks is to control the energy stored in the springs. Without functional damping, your car would continue to oscillate long after hitting a bump, leading to poor traction and uneven tire wear. When searching for rear shocks 2013 ford fusion, you will find options ranging from basic twin-tube designs to high-performance monotube upgrades.
It is important to understand that the rear shock in this vehicle is held by a cast aluminum upper mount. This mount is a frequent point of failure, often cracking or corroding in salt-heavy regions. When you replace your shocks, I highly recommend inspecting these mounts or simply replacing them as part of the assembly to avoid doing the job twice.
Signs Your Rear Shocks Are Failing
The most common symptom of a bad shock is cupping on the rear tires. If you run your hand over the tread and feel hills and valleys, your shocks are no longer keeping the tire planted firmly on the road. This uneven wear can lead to loud road noise that many owners mistake for a bad wheel bearing.
Another “tell” is the visual inspection of the shock body. If you see wet, oily residue clinging to the side of the shock, the internal seals have failed. Once the hydraulic fluid leaks out, the shock loses its ability to provide resistance, leaving you with nothing but the spring to support the movement.
Finally, pay attention to “nose-diving” during braking or “squatting” during acceleration. While these are often front-end issues, failing rear shocks contribute to a lack of stability during weight transfer. If the rear of your Fusion feels “loose” or floaty when you change lanes at highway speeds, it is a clear indicator of worn components.
Essential Tools and Materials for the Job
Before you crack a single lug nut, gather your tools. Having everything within reach prevents the frustration of mid-job hardware store runs. For this specific project, you will need a metric socket set, as Ford uses standard metric sizing across the CD4 platform.
You will definitely need a 15mm socket for the lower mounting bolt and a 13mm socket for the upper mount bolts. A long extension is helpful for reaching the upper bolts inside the wheel well. I also suggest having a torque wrench on hand to ensure every fastener is tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- Floor jack and high-quality jack stands.
- 19mm socket for the lug nuts.
- 13mm and 15mm deep-well sockets.
- Penetrating oil (like PB Blaster or WD-40 Specialist).
- A small wire brush to clean threads.
- New shock absorbers (sold in pairs).
Safety is the most critical part of any DIY project. Never work under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack. Always use jack stands placed on a flat, level surface. Chock the front wheels to prevent the car from rolling while the rear is in the air.
Choosing Between OEM and Aftermarket Options
When selecting new rear shocks 2013 ford fusion, you have a choice between original equipment (OEM) Motorcraft parts and aftermarket brands like KYB, Monroe, or Bilstein. OEM shocks are designed to provide the exact ride quality the car had when it left the factory.
Aftermarket “OE Spectrum” shocks are often more affordable and can offer a slightly firmer ride, which many drivers prefer for better cornering. If you frequently carry heavy loads or passengers, a monotube shock upgrade might be worth the extra cost. Monotubes dissipate heat faster, which prevents “shock fade” during long trips on rough roads.
Regardless of the brand, always replace shocks in pairs. Replacing only one side can cause an imbalance in handling, leading to unpredictable behavior during emergency maneuvers. A matched set ensures that the damping rates are identical across the rear axle.
Step-by-Step Installation Guide
Start by loosening the lug nuts on your rear wheels while the car is still on the ground. Once they are loose, jack up the rear of the vehicle. Place your jack stands under the pinch welds or the subframe, then lower the car onto the stands and remove the wheels entirely.
Locate the lower shock bolt where it connects to the rear knuckle. This bolt is often exposed to road grime and salt, so hit it with penetrating oil and let it sit for ten minutes. Use your 15mm socket and a breaker bar to break the tension, but do not remove the bolt completely just yet.
Move your attention to the upper mount. You will see two 13mm bolts securing the aluminum bracket to the body of the car. Use your extension to reach these. Once the upper bolts are out, you can finish removing the lower 15mm bolt. The entire shock assembly should now slide out from the wheel well.
Transferring the Upper Mount
Most new shocks do not come with the upper mount or the dust boot. You will need to transfer these from the old unit unless you purchased a “loaded” shock. To do this, remove the nut at the very top of the shock rod. You may need a pass-through socket or a pair of gripping pliers to hold the rod while you turn the nut.
Inspect the rubber “jounce bumper” inside the dust boot. If it is crumbling or cracked, replace it. Slide the boot and the upper mount onto the new shock rod. Tighten the top nut until it is snug. Ensure the mount is oriented correctly so the bolt holes align with the chassis during installation.
Now, slide the new assembly back into the wheel well. I find it easiest to start the two 13mm upper bolts by hand first. This supports the weight of the shock while you align the lower eyelet with the suspension knuckle. You may need to use your floor jack to slightly compress the suspension to get the lower bolt hole to line up.
Final Torquing and Safety Check
Once all bolts are started by hand, tighten them down. The upper 13mm bolts should be torqued to approximately 22 lb-ft (30 Nm). The lower 15mm bolt requires more force, usually around 81 lb-ft (110 Nm). Using a torque wrench is the only way to be certain these critical fasteners won’t vibrate loose.
Reinstall your wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lower the car back to the ground and finish tightening the lug nuts in a star pattern to 100 lb-ft. Take a moment to bounce the rear of the car; it should feel firm and settle almost immediately. If it continues to oscillate, double-check your mounting hardware.
Before heading out for a test drive, check your work one last time. Ensure no tools were left in the wheel well and that the brake lines are not pinched or stretched. A quick five-minute inspection can prevent a major headache down the road.
Common Pitfalls and Pro-Tips
One of the most common mistakes DIYers make is tightening the lower shock bolt while the suspension is “unloaded” (hanging in the air). This can trap torsional stress in the rubber bushing, leading to premature failure. For the best results, snug the bolt while the car is on stands, but perform the final torque once the car is back on its own weight.
If you live in the “Rust Belt,” the 15mm lower bolt can sometimes seize inside the metal sleeve of the shock bushing. If the bolt spins but won’t come out, you may need to use a reciprocating saw to cut the bolt. Always have a spare M10 or M12 grade 10.9 bolt on hand if your car has significant underbody corrosion.
Don’t forget the wheel well liner. On some trims of the 2013 Fusion, the fabric-like liner can get in the way of the upper bolts. You don’t need to remove the whole liner; just remove a few of the plastic push-pins to peel it back. This gives you a clear line of sight to the mounting points.
Frequently Asked Questions About rear shocks 2013 ford fusion
How long does it take to replace rear shocks on a 2013 Ford Fusion?
For a beginner with basic tools, the job usually takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. If you have an impact wrench and the bolts aren’t rusted, an experienced DIYer can finish both sides in under an hour. Always factor in extra time for cleaning parts and safety checks.
Do I need an alignment after replacing rear shocks?
Generally, no. Replacing the rear shocks on this specific vehicle does not alter the camber or toe settings because the shock is not a structural part of the alignment geometry (unlike a front strut). However, if you notice uneven tire wear after the swap, it is wise to have a professional alignment performed.
Can I drive with a blown rear shock?
While the car will physically move, it is not safe. A blown shock increases your stopping distance and makes the car unstable during emergency swerves. It also puts excessive stress on other suspension components like the control arm bushings and ball joints, leading to more expensive repairs later.
Should I replace the coil springs at the same time?
Unless the car is sagging or you see a broken coil, the springs usually last the life of the vehicle. However, if you are looking to lower the car or improve performance, replacing the springs while the rear shocks 2013 ford fusion are out is the most efficient way to do it.
What is the difference between a shock and a strut?
A strut is a structural part of the suspension that supports the weight of the vehicle and holds the spring. A shock simply dampens the movement and does not support the weight. The 2013 Fusion uses struts in the front and shocks in the rear.
Conclusion: Enjoy the Smooth Ride
Taking the time to install new rear shocks 2013 ford fusion is one of the most rewarding DIY projects you can undertake. Not only do you save significantly on labor costs, but you also gain a deeper understanding of how your vehicle operates. The difference in ride quality is often night and day, turning a bouncy, noisy commute into a refined driving experience.
Remember to prioritize safety by using jack stands and a torque wrench. If you encounter a bolt that won’t budge or a mount that looks severely damaged, don’t be afraid to take a breath and apply more penetrating oil or consult a professional. Most of the time, a little patience and the right leverage are all you need to succeed.
Now that your rear suspension is refreshed, you can drive with the peace of mind that your tires are planted and your chassis is stable. Keep an eye on your tire pressure and continue with regular maintenance to keep your Fusion on the road for years to come. Stay safe and stay comfortable!
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