2013 Ford Escape Rear Brake Replacement – A Professional Guide To DIY
This comprehensive guide provides a detailed, step-by-step walkthrough for completing a 2013 ford escape rear brake replacement safely and effectively. By following these expert instructions, you can restore your vehicle’s stopping power, save on labor costs, and ensure your braking system is reliable for daily commutes or weekend adventures.
If you have noticed a high-pitched squeal or a grinding sensation when slowing down your SUV, it is likely time for maintenance. Performing a 2013 ford escape rear brake replacement is a manageable task for most DIY enthusiasts with the right tools and a bit of patience.
You do not need to be a master mechanic to achieve professional results in your own driveway. This guide is designed to bridge the gap between basic knowledge and technical execution, ensuring you feel confident at every stage of the process.
We will cover everything from the essential tools you need to the specific safety precautions required for Ford’s braking system. By the end of this article, you will have the “pro-tips” needed to ensure your pads and rotors are installed perfectly for maximum longevity.
Essential Tools and Supplies for the Job
Before you begin your 2013 ford escape rear brake replacement, you must gather the correct equipment. Having everything within arm’s reach prevents frustration and ensures you don’t get stuck halfway through the job with a dismantled car.
The 2013 Ford Escape uses a specific rear caliper design that requires more than just a standard C-clamp. Because the parking brake is integrated into the caliper, you will need a caliper wind-back tool to retract the piston properly.
- Floor Jack and Jack Stands: Never work on a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Lug Wrench: To remove the wheel nuts.
- Socket Set: Specifically 13mm and 15mm sockets for the caliper and bracket bolts.
- Caliper Wind-back Tool: Essential for rotating the rear piston back into the housing.
- Brake Parts Cleaner: To remove shipping oil from new rotors.
- High-Temperature Brake Grease: For the slide pins and pad contact points.
- Torque Wrench: To ensure all bolts are tightened to factory specifications.
In addition to tools, ensure you have high-quality replacement parts. Choosing ceramic brake pads can reduce dust and noise, while coated rotors help prevent rust buildup on the hat and edges.
Safety First: Preparing Your Workspace
Safety is the most critical aspect of any automotive repair. Before you even loosen a lug nut, you must ensure the vehicle is stable and cannot move while you are working underneath or around the wheel wells.
Park the vehicle on a flat, level surface like a concrete garage floor or a paved driveway. Engage the transmission in Park and place wheel chocks in front of the front tires to prevent the car from rolling forward or backward.
Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels while the tires are still touching the ground. This prevents the wheel from spinning while you apply force. Once loosened, lift the rear of the vehicle using the factory-recommended lift points located on the frame rail.
Place your jack stands under the frame and lower the jack until the weight is fully supported by the stands. Shake the vehicle gently to confirm it is rock-solid. Only then should you remove the lug nuts and the wheel to begin the work.
Step-by-Step 2013 ford escape rear brake replacement
Now that the vehicle is secure and the wheel is off, you can begin the actual 2013 ford escape rear brake replacement. This process involves removing the old components, cleaning the assembly, and installing the new hardware correctly.
Removing the Caliper and Old Pads
Locate the two 13mm bolts on the back of the caliper. These are the caliper guide pin bolts. Hold the guide pin with a wrench if it starts to spin while you are loosening the bolt.
Once the bolts are out, gently wiggle the caliper off the rotor. Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose, as this can cause internal damage. Use a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire to hang the caliper from the rear coil spring.
Remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket. Take note of how the wear indicators and clips are positioned. This will help you orient the new pads later in the process.
Replacing the Brake Rotors
To remove the rotor, you must first remove the caliper mounting bracket. This is held in place by two 15mm bolts. These bolts are often very tight and may require a breaker bar or a bit of penetrating oil to loosen.
With the bracket removed, the rotor should slide off the hub. If it is stuck due to rust, a few light taps with a rubber mallet on the back of the rotor will usually break it free.
Before installing the new rotor, use a wire brush to clean the hub mounting surface. Any rust or debris left on the hub can cause the new rotor to sit unevenly, leading to pedal pulsation or “warped” rotor symptoms.
Resetting the Brake Piston Correctly
This is the most technical part of a 2013 ford escape rear brake replacement. The rear piston cannot be simply pressed in; it must be rotated clockwise while being pushed back into the caliper housing.
Attach the correct adapter from your wind-back tool kit to the piston face. Slowly turn the tool to screw the piston back in until it is flush with the caliper body. Ensure the notches in the piston are aligned vertically so they can engage the pins on the back of the new pads.
Check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood before doing this. If it is full, retracting the piston might cause fluid to overflow. You may need to remove a small amount of fluid with a turkey baster or syringe first.
Why You Should Never Skip Lubricating Slide Pins
A common mistake during a 2013 ford escape rear brake replacement is neglecting the caliper slide pins. These pins allow the caliper to move freely so that the pads apply even pressure to both sides of the rotor.
Pull the pins out of the bracket and wipe away the old, crusty grease. Inspect the rubber boots for tears or cracks. If the boots are damaged, moisture will enter and cause the pins to seize, leading to uneven pad wear.
Apply a generous coating of silicone-based brake lubricant to the pins. Do not use petroleum-based grease, as it can swell the rubber boots. Reinsert the pins and ensure they move in and out smoothly without resistance.
Additionally, apply a thin layer of grease to the metal “ears” of the brake pads where they contact the bracket clips. This prevents the pads from sticking and eliminates the “click” sound sometimes heard when shifting from reverse to drive.
Reassembly and Final Inspection
Slide the new rotor onto the hub. You can use one lug nut to hold it flat against the hub while you work. Reinstall the caliper mounting bracket and tighten the 15mm bolts to factory torque specs (usually around 82 lb-ft for this model).
Snap the new brake pads into the bracket. Ensure the anti-rattle clips are seated properly and are not touching the rotor surface. Slide the caliper over the new pads, ensuring the piston notches align with the pad pins.
Install the 13mm guide pin bolts and tighten them. Once both sides are complete, put the wheels back on and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle and perform a final torque check on the lug nuts (100 lb-ft).
Before driving, sit in the driver’s seat and pump the brake pedal several times. The first few pumps will feel soft as the pistons move out to meet the new pads. Do not put the car in gear until the pedal feels firm and responsive.
Troubleshooting Common Issues After Installation
Even after a successful 2013 ford escape rear brake replacement, you might encounter minor issues. Knowing how to diagnose these quickly will save you a trip to the local repair shop.
If you hear a scraping sound immediately after the job, check the thin metal dust shield behind the rotor. It is easy to accidentally bend this shield during the process so that it rubs against the rotor. Simply push it back with a screwdriver.
A “soft” or “spongy” pedal usually indicates air in the lines or that the pistons haven’t fully seated. However, if you didn’t open the bleeder valves, air shouldn’t be an issue. Pumping the pedal usually solves this.
If you experience a burning smell during the first few miles, don’t panic. This is often just the protective coating on the rotors or the “bedding-in” chemicals in the pads heating up. It should disappear after a few stops.
Frequently Asked Questions About 2013 ford escape rear brake replacement
Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads?
If you did not open the bleeder screws or disconnect the brake lines, you typically do not need to bleed the system. However, if the pedal remains soft after pumping it, a brake fluid flush may be necessary to remove old moisture or trapped air.
Can I use a C-clamp for the rear calipers?
No, you should not use a standard C-clamp for a 2013 ford escape rear brake replacement. The rear pistons are part of the parking brake mechanism and must be rotated as they are compressed. Using a C-clamp can damage the internal ratcheting system.
How long should the rear brakes last on a Ford Escape?
Typically, rear brake pads last between 30,000 and 70,000 miles. This varies greatly depending on your driving style, whether you carry heavy loads, and if you drive in stop-and-go city traffic frequently.
What is “bedding in” the brakes?
Bedding in is the process of depositing a uniform layer of pad material onto the rotor surface. To do this, perform 5-10 moderate stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph without coming to a complete stop, allowing the brakes to cool slightly between each run.
Conclusion: Enjoy Your Renewed Stopping Power
Completing a 2013 ford escape rear brake replacement is a rewarding project that enhances your vehicle’s safety and your own mechanical skills. By taking the time to clean the hub, lubricate the slide pins, and use the proper wind-back tool, you have ensured a high-quality repair.
Remember that the first few miles are the most important for your new components. Drive carefully and avoid panic braking for the first 100 miles to allow the pads and rotors to mate perfectly. This patience will be rewarded with quiet, smooth, and powerful braking for years to come.
If you ever feel unsure about a step or notice a fluid leak that you cannot identify, never hesitate to consult a certified technician. Your safety is worth the investment. Now, get out there, enjoy the road, and stay safe!
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