2013 Ford F150 3.5 Ecoboost Timing Chain Replacement
This guide provides a comprehensive walkthrough for addressing timing chain stretch and cam phaser issues in the first-generation 3.5L EcoBoost engine. You will learn the necessary tools, updated part numbers, and critical timing alignment steps required to restore your truck’s performance and reliability.
We all love the massive torque and towing capability of the twin-turbocharged F-150, but hearing a metallic rattle on a cold morning is a gut-punch for any owner. This sound usually signals that your engine’s timing components are reaching the end of their service life.
Performing a 2013 ford f150 3.5 ecoboost timing chain replacement is a complex task, but it is the only way to prevent catastrophic engine failure. By following this guide, you can tackle this job in your own garage, saving thousands of dollars in professional labor costs.
In the following sections, we will break down the symptoms of a stretched chain, the specialty tools you need to lock the camshafts, and the step-by-step process to get your timing marks perfectly aligned. Let’s dive into the mechanical heart of your EcoBoost and get it running smoothly again.
Recognizing the Symptoms of Timing Chain Stretch
The most common sign that you need a 2013 ford f150 3.5 ecoboost timing chain replacement is a brief, loud rattling noise during a cold start. This happens because the primary timing chain has stretched beyond the ability of the hydraulic tensioner to take up the slack before oil pressure builds.
As the chain stretches, the relationship between the crankshaft and the camshafts drifts out of sync. This often triggers a Check Engine Light with codes P0016 (Crankshaft/Camshaft Correlation) or P0017, indicating the computer has detected the timing misalignment.
Beyond the noise and codes, you might notice a drop in fuel economy, a rougher idle, or a slight loss of power during acceleration. If left unaddressed, the chain can skip a tooth on the sprockets, leading to valve-to-piston contact and a total engine rebuild.
The Role of the Cam Phasers
While the chain is the primary culprit, the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) units, or phasers, are often part of the problem. Internal wear in the phasers can cause them to fail to lock into their base position, contributing to that dreaded startup chatter.
When performing this service, it is highly recommended to replace the phasers along with the chain. Ford has released updated phaser designs that are much more durable than the original units installed in 2013 models.
Essential Tools and Parts for the Job
This is not a “basic tool kit” kind of job; you will need several specialty items to ensure the timing is set correctly. Attempting this without the camshaft holding tools is a recipe for frustration and potential engine damage.
You will need a set of 3.5L EcoBoost specific cam locks (often called “plates”) that bolt into the back of the camshafts. You also need a high-quality torque wrench, a harmonic balancer puller, and a variety of 3/8″ and 1/2″ drive sockets and extensions.
- Primary Timing Chain: Look for the latest revision from Ford (Motorcraft).
- Chain Guides and Tensioner: These wear down and should always be replaced as a set.
- Updated Cam Phasers: Ensure you have the revised intake and exhaust phasers.
- Front Cover Gasket & Sealant: Ford uses TA-357 high-performance silicone for the front cover.
- Valve Cover Gaskets: These are usually brittle and will leak if reused.
Ordering the Right Kit
Many owners opt for a complete timing service kit which includes the water pump. Since the water pump is driven by the timing chain on this engine, replacing it “while you’re in there” is cheap insurance against a future failure.
Be wary of extremely cheap “no-name” timing kits found online. The labor involved in a 2013 ford f150 3.5 ecoboost timing chain replacement is too intense to risk using inferior parts that might fail within 10,000 miles.
The Step-by-Step 2013 ford f150 3.5 ecoboost timing chain replacement Guide
Before you begin, disconnect the battery and drain the engine oil and coolant. You will be removing a significant portion of the front of the engine, so having a clean workspace and plenty of labeled containers for bolts is essential.
Start by removing the air intake system, the cooling fans, and the upper radiator hose. You will also need to remove the Charge Air Cooler (intercooler) piping and the throttle body to gain enough clearance to work on the front of the block.
Next, remove the valve covers. This requires disconnecting the ignition coils and moving the wiring harness out of the way. Be extremely careful with the plastic connectors, as they become brittle over time due to engine heat.
Removing the Front Cover
To access the chain, you must remove the harmonic balancer and the large aluminum front engine cover. There are dozens of bolts of varying lengths; a pro-tip is to draw a diagram on a piece of cardboard and poke the bolts through it as you remove them.
With the cover off, you will see the primary chain and the two secondary chains. Rotate the engine by hand using the crankshaft bolt until the timing marks on the sprockets align with the colored links on the old chain (if they are still visible).
Install your camshaft holding tools at the rear of the cams to prevent them from spinning under valve spring pressure. Once the cams are locked, you can safely remove the tensioner, the guides, and finally the timing chain itself.
Critical Timing Marks and Alignment Procedures
Precision is everything when installing the new components. The new timing chain will have brightly colored links (usually two together and one single link) that must align perfectly with the dots on the phasers and the crankshaft sprocket.
Place the two colored links over the timing marks on the intake and exhaust phasers. The single colored link at the bottom must align with the mark on the crankshaft sprocket at the 6 o’clock position.
Double-check the alignment multiple times. Even being off by a single tooth can cause the engine to run poorly or trigger a permanent “limp mode” condition. Once you are certain, install the new guides and the primary tensioner.
Verifying the Setup
Before removing the cam locks, pull the grenade pin on the new tensioner to apply pressure to the chain. Remove the holding tools and rotate the engine two full revolutions by hand using a breaker bar on the crank bolt.
Listen for any mechanical resistance or “clunking.” If the engine rotates smoothly and the timing marks return to their relative positions (though the colored links won’t align again for many rotations), you have successfully completed the 2013 ford f150 3.5 ecoboost timing chain replacement timing phase.
Reassembly: Sealing the Front Cover and Testing
Cleaning the mating surfaces is the most overlooked part of this job. Use a plastic scraper and brake cleaner to remove every trace of old RTV sealant from the engine block and the front cover.
Apply a consistent 1/8-inch bead of high-temp silicone sealant to the front cover. Pay special attention to the “T-junctions” where the head meets the block, as these are common leak points if not sealed properly.
Install the front cover and torque the bolts in a criss-cross pattern to the factory specification. Reinstall the harmonic balancer using a new bolt, as the original is a torque-to-yield fastener designed for one-time use only.
The First Start-Up
After reinstalling the valve covers, coils, and cooling system, fill the engine with fresh 5W-30 synthetic oil and Motorcraft Orange (or Yellow) coolant. It is a good idea to “prime” the oil system before the first start.
To prime the system, hold the gas pedal to the floor (clear flood mode) and crank the engine for 10 seconds. This builds oil pressure in the new tensioners and phasers without the engine actually firing up.
Release the pedal and start the truck. It may stumble for a second as the computer relearns the idle, but the cold start rattle should be completely gone. Check thoroughly for oil or coolant leaks as the engine reaches operating temperature.
Frequently Asked Questions About 2013 ford f150 3.5 ecoboost timing chain replacement
How long does a timing chain replacement take?
For an experienced DIYer, this job typically takes 12 to 16 hours. If it is your first time working on an EcoBoost engine, plan for a full weekend to ensure you don’t rush the timing alignment or sealing process.
Can I just replace the tensioner to fix the rattle?
While a failing tensioner contributes to the noise, the rattle is almost always caused by a stretched chain. Replacing only the tensioner is a temporary band-aid that usually fails within a few months.
What happens if I don’t replace the timing chain?
Eventually, the chain will stretch so far that the computer can no longer compensate for the timing drift. This leads to severe power loss, and eventually, the chain can jump or break, causing catastrophic engine damage.
Should I replace the water pump at the same time?
Yes. The water pump on the 2013 3.5L EcoBoost is located behind the front cover and is driven by the timing chain. Replacing it during a 2013 ford f150 3.5 ecoboost timing chain replacement costs very little extra but prevents a massive labor bill later.
Final Thoughts on EcoBoost Maintenance
Completing a timing service on a twin-turbo V6 is a major milestone for any home mechanic. It requires patience, the right specialty tools, and a strict adherence to torque specifications and timing marks.
By taking the time to perform a 2013 ford f150 3.5 ecoboost timing chain replacement correctly, you are extending the life of your truck by another 100,000 miles or more. This repair restores the “like-new” quietness and throttle response that made the F-150 a class leader.
Remember to change your oil every 5,000 miles with high-quality full synthetic oil to keep your new chain and phasers lubricated. Proper maintenance is the best way to ensure your EcoBoost stays on the road and off the tow truck. Stay safe and keep wrenching!
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